We have been back in Oregon since July 4th, but before too much time passes I must make an entry about our trip to Croatia. We left Copenhagen on June 25th, flew to Budapest, Hungary where we met my sister, Susan, and her family at the airport and then all flew to Split, Croatia. From Split, we boarded a bus for a 35 minute trip to the harbor, where we caught a 1 1/2 hour ferry ride to the island of Hvar. The ferry dropped us off in the town of Jelsa and we got a van ride to the town of Star Grad, and to our villa. The whole journey took 12 hours, from start to finish and by the end, as we realized just how far away we were isolating ourselves, we wondered if this place was going to be worth it.
Not only did we have a good time, Stari Grad and the island of Hvar has become one of my favorite places in the world. Never have I arrived at a city or country and felt like I immediately belonged. We didn't realize until we got there that Hvar is one of the top ten islands (in the world) to visit. It has everything: scenery, recreation, inviting ocean, warm weather, fantastic food, and friendly people. A country that relies significantly on tourism, they have their logistics and such organized and efficient. We decided not to rent cars for the 9 of us, for the week. It limited us to staying on the island and not seeing much of the mainland, but we had plenty to do and plenty of time to relax and enjoy where we were. Having just ended a eventful year, we needed a vacation with "down time". I will have to get back to the mainland another year and investigate the beautiful parks and cities.
Stari Grad is the oldest town in Croatia (a country that used to be part of Yugoslavia, and is located south of Austria and across the Adriatic Sea from Italy). It was a Greek outpost dating back to 300 B.C. It sits on one of the many islands off the mainland of Croatia, and tucked 5 miles deep in an inlet, guarded by small mountain peaks. The country has had eras of occupation by the Greek, Italians, Austrians and French, before it's most recent socialist status but draws it's architectural influence mainly from Venician culture. The stone buildings and red tile roofs look as if they are carbon copied from Italian villages. The language (Croatian) is a strong slavic, but heavily influenced by an Italian tone. One would think that Italian was being spoken, and many d.
Stari Grad is where my great-grandfather was born and lived, before moving to Portland, OR. Susan and I were on a "roots" quest, like many Vranizans before us, and as many foreigners do for their families as well. We visited the cemetary, the church, the old family house and managed to meet with another Vranizan - but realized our family lineage was too distant. The original Croatian spelling is "Vranjican" and some changed it to "Vragnizan" later, to appeal to the Italian interactions. Our roots hunt added a different dimention to our vacation that was terrifically stimulating, as we wandered the old city cobblestones in our search and connected with locals. Turns out, Vranjican is a very well-known name and anyone who has lived there knows it well. As a matter of fact, in the history book of Stari Grad, the Vranjican brothers were infamous in their efforts in the French resistence at the beginning of the 1800's and were endowed with nobility. Yes, we ancestors of blue bloods. Maybe not direct to our specific family, but it sure makes for a good story.
Our villa sat up the hill, so from our terrace we viewed the old city and harbor. Mornings we would wake up and have coffee on the terrace while the girl cousins played and we figured out our adventure for the day. The vegetable and fruit market opened every morning at 6 am, which was only a 5 minute walk, if that. We were just minutes from the store, market, tourist information, restaurants and places to rent bikes, scooters, boats. For a vacation spot without a car, we did just great. On the days we wanted to travel away, we rented a van and driver, which was faster and less expensive than the island busses. Other days we scootered to one beach and rented motor boats and explored a more private cove. Molly and Lucy were sick during the trip and we got to experience the doctor's office, which turned out to be a pleasure. Molly's fever prohibited a couple days of play, but she bounced back.
Our vacation crescendoed with a trip to the Amfaro Hotel in Hvar Town on the last day. We lazed in the sun and played in their pool for 6 hours and then back in Stari Grad had a private one-of-a-kind dinner in a Croatian konoba, cooked by an egocentric and off-center yet famous chef, named Igor. We had a traditional peasant meal made with all local fresh foods, meats, fish and poulty with heavy sauces. We ate arugula salad with our fingers and had 4 rounds of carbohydrates: bread, mashed potatoes, polenta and gnocchi inbetween each meat course, followed by ice cream and a local liquer. We had to take breaks between courses and the kids were invited to help prepare food in the old, miniscule kitchen.
Our trip back to Copenhagen was extra long, as we battled thunder and lightning storms and airport travel which is never fun. We overnighted our very last night in Copenhagen at the Marriott Hotel, downtown - THE most American hotel in the whole city. It sort of prepared us for the re-entry. The last long flight home was long, yet uneventful. We landed quietly in Portland on the fourth of July, rented a car, drove ourselves to our temporary condo downtown without any fanfare or regalia. Just what we wanted. We forced ourselves to stay awake to see the fireworks from our bedroom window - a rare treat and then slipped into a jet lagged sleep.
Our very first activity on the first day back was a trip to Fred Meyer Grocery Store. But that's the beginning of another story.....
Thanks for your continued reading interest. Love and Light to all,
Mary Jo
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Monday, July 13, 2009
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
The Last Days of Danish Life
Our lives here in Denmark are coming to a close. In a few short hours we will board a plane for Croatia for our last European adventure and then home to Portland. In the last days we have shut down our domestic, school and work lives. Craig's last day in the Europe office was Friday the 19th. The movers packed us up in one 8-hour day Tuesday the 23rd, and yesterday both girls finished school, Maya having graduation ceremonies from 5th grade.
The above phrases are simple to type, but the experience goes much deeper. There's something very significant about reducing your life posessions to one carry-on suitcase, leaving the comfort and sanctuary of our home, saying "good-bye" to everyone we've known while living here and walking away. For us, it's a little easier since we are going back to our Portland home and friends. Also easier because we have less here to pack up and less personal ties to break.
The good byes are always hardest for the people we leave behind. Just as new friendships become significant and we both realize there's more to be had, we abondon them to the hardships of the Danish life that we've all come to know. The oasis of the CIS International Coomunity reduces, and for those who remain, an instability in the already fragile balance of personal dynamics. Many who are staying dread the uncertainties they will face, but encouraged by those who remain, knowing at least that they will not be as brand new and confused as the newbies. We will remember our friends dearly next year and look forward to hearing how they continue their adventures.
Being part of the ex-pat community continues to be so unusual. Families just don't say "Good bye and I'll see you in the fall". We say "Farewell and have a good life!" People go off to new destinations worldwide while others remain. There are hopes and plans to meet again but we all know that time, chance and serrendipitous travel will direct the circumstances. We are like spinning tops around the globe and if we stay in contact, we'll meet up with some one, some where. There are people that we really hope to see again, and when we do, it will be a joyous celebration. But we may have to wait years...
Maya's graduation on the 24th was sweet. At 10 am her class marched into the performing arts center to "Pomp and Circumstance" and other than a short speech from the principle, directed and performed the ceremony. Classmates played the piano, recited poety, electric guitar and drum band, a slide show of year-long memories, personal reflections and singing. The two 5th grade teachers, Ms. Tearse and Ms. Christiansen along with the principle, Ms. Stanners handed out roses and diplomas. Afterwards families joined in the atrium to say their final good byes and last photos with classmates. And with that, Maya became a 6th grader - a middle schooler. Lord almighty, help us!! Molly was officially released at Noon and
became a 4th grader, bound for Rieke. We walked away from CIS with bittersweet memories.
That afternoon we joined many CIS families at a nearby beach (Charlottenlund Fort). Turns out, it was the nicest day we've had since living here. As if the city is taunting us saying - "See what you'll be missing?". It must have been 82 degrees and no wind. The girls swam and played in the sand for hours. The ladies talked and analyzed once again (as Molly puts it) "our weird Danish life". We walked for almost an hour with our friends Ilene and Andrew Bremwell (Andrew is in Maya's class) back to their apartment, stopping for drinks and ice cream along the way. Craig joined us, and we sat on their veranda and drank a beer overlooking the Waterfront, seeing the ships in and out of port and the numerous sailing boats, kayaks and skulls. It was an end to a perfect day and a long year.
Since Tuesday we've been staying at an apartment hotel near Trianglen Square, between Copenhagen central and Hellerup. It's an old apartment that is owned and run by a small hotel. While only half the price of major hotels downtown, our apartment is mixed in with people who live here regularly. There are 2 spacious, high-ceilinged rooms with twin beds around the perimeter of the room and then dining room and living room furniture in the middle. A small kitchen and bathroom and foyer complete the space. We love it. We're right across the street from a bakery and a market and near restaurants. It's been a great location to finish out our stay.
I need to get up and pack and get going, once again. This blog will continue.
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
The above phrases are simple to type, but the experience goes much deeper. There's something very significant about reducing your life posessions to one carry-on suitcase, leaving the comfort and sanctuary of our home, saying "good-bye" to everyone we've known while living here and walking away. For us, it's a little easier since we are going back to our Portland home and friends. Also easier because we have less here to pack up and less personal ties to break.
The good byes are always hardest for the people we leave behind. Just as new friendships become significant and we both realize there's more to be had, we abondon them to the hardships of the Danish life that we've all come to know. The oasis of the CIS International Coomunity reduces, and for those who remain, an instability in the already fragile balance of personal dynamics. Many who are staying dread the uncertainties they will face, but encouraged by those who remain, knowing at least that they will not be as brand new and confused as the newbies. We will remember our friends dearly next year and look forward to hearing how they continue their adventures.
Being part of the ex-pat community continues to be so unusual. Families just don't say "Good bye and I'll see you in the fall". We say "Farewell and have a good life!" People go off to new destinations worldwide while others remain. There are hopes and plans to meet again but we all know that time, chance and serrendipitous travel will direct the circumstances. We are like spinning tops around the globe and if we stay in contact, we'll meet up with some one, some where. There are people that we really hope to see again, and when we do, it will be a joyous celebration. But we may have to wait years...
Maya's graduation on the 24th was sweet. At 10 am her class marched into the performing arts center to "Pomp and Circumstance" and other than a short speech from the principle, directed and performed the ceremony. Classmates played the piano, recited poety, electric guitar and drum band, a slide show of year-long memories, personal reflections and singing. The two 5th grade teachers, Ms. Tearse and Ms. Christiansen along with the principle, Ms. Stanners handed out roses and diplomas. Afterwards families joined in the atrium to say their final good byes and last photos with classmates. And with that, Maya became a 6th grader - a middle schooler. Lord almighty, help us!! Molly was officially released at Noon and
became a 4th grader, bound for Rieke. We walked away from CIS with bittersweet memories.
That afternoon we joined many CIS families at a nearby beach (Charlottenlund Fort). Turns out, it was the nicest day we've had since living here. As if the city is taunting us saying - "See what you'll be missing?". It must have been 82 degrees and no wind. The girls swam and played in the sand for hours. The ladies talked and analyzed once again (as Molly puts it) "our weird Danish life". We walked for almost an hour with our friends Ilene and Andrew Bremwell (Andrew is in Maya's class) back to their apartment, stopping for drinks and ice cream along the way. Craig joined us, and we sat on their veranda and drank a beer overlooking the Waterfront, seeing the ships in and out of port and the numerous sailing boats, kayaks and skulls. It was an end to a perfect day and a long year.
Since Tuesday we've been staying at an apartment hotel near Trianglen Square, between Copenhagen central and Hellerup. It's an old apartment that is owned and run by a small hotel. While only half the price of major hotels downtown, our apartment is mixed in with people who live here regularly. There are 2 spacious, high-ceilinged rooms with twin beds around the perimeter of the room and then dining room and living room furniture in the middle. A small kitchen and bathroom and foyer complete the space. We love it. We're right across the street from a bakery and a market and near restaurants. It's been a great location to finish out our stay.
I need to get up and pack and get going, once again. This blog will continue.
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
A Dip in The Oresund
Life is a series of crossing and re-crossing our steps. It's the experiences that we have between those steps that give us a new perspective and makes it seem like we're treading anew. No place is exactly the same if we are different inside.
Such was the feeling as I rode through Dyrehaven (The Deer Park) perhaps for the last time yesterday. What a pleasure it's been to see the changes of the season and the deer habitat. The foliage was bright green, bursting with life. The new baby fawns were feeding and scampering together in packs, a short distance from their adult guardians. While Van Morrison, my "minister of soul", piped through my IPOD I was filled with splendor and gratefulness. Nature is my greatest teacher, because I feel closest to God.
About an hour into the ride, I came out on the Standvejen, near Skodsborg. I stopped at a local beach where people come out every day, all day long, for their dip in the Oresund. The sound is the waterway between Sweden and Denmark and the water temperature runs slightly higher than the ocean. It's a fairly common sight to see bathers walking across the street in their bathrobes, getting out of their cars in robes or changing in the bathhouse provided. They walk out onto the pier, take off their robes, some with suits and others without, and step down into the water, swim for 5 - 10 seconds, get out, put on their robes and walk or drive back.
Danes will do this year-round, which amazes us foreigners. The Danes are hearty people, man. They train at a young age to enjoy the out-of-doors. Mothers purposely put their babies in prams outside in the winter for naps! I guess that's why when it's summer here, people where shorts and sun dresses when it's in the 60's. That's summer baby! But I digress.
When I got to Skodsborg I figured this was the opportunity to join in a Danish pastime. It was now or never. I walked away from the popular pier and down the beach, near some boulders and modestly hidden from the roadside. I stripped down to "au natural" and walked right in. I did the Danish 10 second swim, came out and quickly dried off and dressed. The whole episode couldn't have lasted more thn 3 minutes and I felt refreshed and envigorated. We all knew there was a good reason they do this.
Biking home south along the Strandvejen, I took a mental picture of the views of Sweden, ships going in and out of port, the windmills, the sailing boats and docks and committed to memory what a unique and interesting place this city is to live in.
Later that day, my friend Geeta Adams had a farewell luncheon for Gail Gorman and I - Americans both leaving after only a year here. Everyone brought such fabulous foods and desserts and I had a rare glass of wine in the middle of the day. The group gave us a tea pot from Illums Bolgihus, the quintessential Scandinavian household products store. The gift couldn't be any more Danish, since tea and cofee are the daily fuel source. It was nice to have a formal good-bye to mark my sisterhood of fellow ex-pat wives. There's a solidarity among these women - a lifeline to sanity in a sea of uncertainty. My thanks and appreciation to them all.
Today and the next 2 days will be a somewhat avoidance of packing, by taking more bike rides and visiting with friends, assemblies at school and such. I'll leave the main push for the weekend. Craig is officially off beginning Friday evening, for 2 weeks. We'll bust out the last 3 days together before the packers arrive Tuesday morning.
This is the beginning of the end. The transition back home will take 2 months, from the time I start packing here, until the last box is unpacked in our Portland home in mid-August. To quote the greatest known band in the universe, "What a long strange trip it's been".
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Such was the feeling as I rode through Dyrehaven (The Deer Park) perhaps for the last time yesterday. What a pleasure it's been to see the changes of the season and the deer habitat. The foliage was bright green, bursting with life. The new baby fawns were feeding and scampering together in packs, a short distance from their adult guardians. While Van Morrison, my "minister of soul", piped through my IPOD I was filled with splendor and gratefulness. Nature is my greatest teacher, because I feel closest to God.
About an hour into the ride, I came out on the Standvejen, near Skodsborg. I stopped at a local beach where people come out every day, all day long, for their dip in the Oresund. The sound is the waterway between Sweden and Denmark and the water temperature runs slightly higher than the ocean. It's a fairly common sight to see bathers walking across the street in their bathrobes, getting out of their cars in robes or changing in the bathhouse provided. They walk out onto the pier, take off their robes, some with suits and others without, and step down into the water, swim for 5 - 10 seconds, get out, put on their robes and walk or drive back.
Danes will do this year-round, which amazes us foreigners. The Danes are hearty people, man. They train at a young age to enjoy the out-of-doors. Mothers purposely put their babies in prams outside in the winter for naps! I guess that's why when it's summer here, people where shorts and sun dresses when it's in the 60's. That's summer baby! But I digress.
When I got to Skodsborg I figured this was the opportunity to join in a Danish pastime. It was now or never. I walked away from the popular pier and down the beach, near some boulders and modestly hidden from the roadside. I stripped down to "au natural" and walked right in. I did the Danish 10 second swim, came out and quickly dried off and dressed. The whole episode couldn't have lasted more thn 3 minutes and I felt refreshed and envigorated. We all knew there was a good reason they do this.
Biking home south along the Strandvejen, I took a mental picture of the views of Sweden, ships going in and out of port, the windmills, the sailing boats and docks and committed to memory what a unique and interesting place this city is to live in.
Later that day, my friend Geeta Adams had a farewell luncheon for Gail Gorman and I - Americans both leaving after only a year here. Everyone brought such fabulous foods and desserts and I had a rare glass of wine in the middle of the day. The group gave us a tea pot from Illums Bolgihus, the quintessential Scandinavian household products store. The gift couldn't be any more Danish, since tea and cofee are the daily fuel source. It was nice to have a formal good-bye to mark my sisterhood of fellow ex-pat wives. There's a solidarity among these women - a lifeline to sanity in a sea of uncertainty. My thanks and appreciation to them all.
Today and the next 2 days will be a somewhat avoidance of packing, by taking more bike rides and visiting with friends, assemblies at school and such. I'll leave the main push for the weekend. Craig is officially off beginning Friday evening, for 2 weeks. We'll bust out the last 3 days together before the packers arrive Tuesday morning.
This is the beginning of the end. The transition back home will take 2 months, from the time I start packing here, until the last box is unpacked in our Portland home in mid-August. To quote the greatest known band in the universe, "What a long strange trip it's been".
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Thursday, June 11, 2009
Waiting to Move is Agony
The end of the school year is dragging along as slowly as the snails that come out onto the concrete during the rains. The girls aren't done until June 24th, 12 days from now. The movers come on the morning of the 23rd to start packing and I'll have so much organized that I'm sure they'll finish in a day, rather than the scheduled two days. We'll move into an old hotel apartment near the city during the packing.
It's been cloudy, cool and drizzly at times this week. And then yesterday the rains hit. It's been raining and windy for 24 hours straight with no telling when it will let up. I joked that our summer was the month of April, when the sun shined every day and I actually wore a pair of shorts. But there is some truth to that.
The weather is actually good to keep me inside and organize the packing. Even though we have a greatly reduced amount of stuff, it still needs to be sorted: things to give away, to sell, to go in the container, to fly to Portland and to go to Croatia. I do a little bit each day. I have spent a lot of time "pre-selling" our belongings that we can't take back. It's my own version of Craig's List. I guess I could call it "Mary Jo's List". Via emails, I've managed to sell off upwards of 50 or 60 items, including Craig's bike, a bed, hair dryer, lamps, christmas lights, vacuum cleaner, shelves, iron, clocks, wine glasses, even extension cords. I have things in piles per owner with tags and amounts and next week will begin distributing them, based on our need. We'll keep things like the toaster and the TVs until the last couple of days.
Maya and Molly have little homework and are beginning to see their friends leaving for the year. All the talk is about who's leaving, where people are going for the summer, when movers arrive, and things like that. I'm setting up sleepovers for the girls this weekend so they can be with friends who they won't see again.
I am so ready to leave, mentally. There is little left that I absolutely need to see or visit. I've been to 20 museums and ridden all over the place. I've visited beaches, castles, restaurants. I've bought everything that I care to bring back. Since I knew I was leaving, I didn't volunteer for committees at school or pick up more yoga teaching jobs or other activities that would give me roots here. I've had a disconnected feeling since the beginning of March. Now it's just a matter of going through the motions and moving on to the next step. Naturally, when you want something to happen and fixate on it, it seems to take forever.
There are annoyances creeping up around us: things are breaking or not functioning well in the house, my bike was pilfered with (yes, I used the word "pilfer") by a person trying to steal bike parts, and has been in the bike shop for most of the week, the garden is out of control with weeds, the weather is much like Portland rain in the winter. Get me out of here!
One consolation has been a connection with other moms, who are having experiences just like me. It's nice to hang out over coffee or on a bike ride and vent or enjoy the Danish experience together, as an outsider. I'm grateful for these few dear friends. I look forward to getting their emails in the future, and I'll be able to know exactly what they're going through. Perhaps I would meet up with them at some exotic location in the future. Who knows...
I had no idea I'd write so much. I've been blogging a lot lately. I guess I feel I have so much to say before we leave. I will miss this house because it's been such a sanctuary in our experience here. It's been cozy and welcoming and provided just what we needed. But we move on, and practice impermanance. Belongings don't mean as much as the expereince. It's about the journey, not the vehicle.
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
It's been cloudy, cool and drizzly at times this week. And then yesterday the rains hit. It's been raining and windy for 24 hours straight with no telling when it will let up. I joked that our summer was the month of April, when the sun shined every day and I actually wore a pair of shorts. But there is some truth to that.
The weather is actually good to keep me inside and organize the packing. Even though we have a greatly reduced amount of stuff, it still needs to be sorted: things to give away, to sell, to go in the container, to fly to Portland and to go to Croatia. I do a little bit each day. I have spent a lot of time "pre-selling" our belongings that we can't take back. It's my own version of Craig's List. I guess I could call it "Mary Jo's List". Via emails, I've managed to sell off upwards of 50 or 60 items, including Craig's bike, a bed, hair dryer, lamps, christmas lights, vacuum cleaner, shelves, iron, clocks, wine glasses, even extension cords. I have things in piles per owner with tags and amounts and next week will begin distributing them, based on our need. We'll keep things like the toaster and the TVs until the last couple of days.
Maya and Molly have little homework and are beginning to see their friends leaving for the year. All the talk is about who's leaving, where people are going for the summer, when movers arrive, and things like that. I'm setting up sleepovers for the girls this weekend so they can be with friends who they won't see again.
I am so ready to leave, mentally. There is little left that I absolutely need to see or visit. I've been to 20 museums and ridden all over the place. I've visited beaches, castles, restaurants. I've bought everything that I care to bring back. Since I knew I was leaving, I didn't volunteer for committees at school or pick up more yoga teaching jobs or other activities that would give me roots here. I've had a disconnected feeling since the beginning of March. Now it's just a matter of going through the motions and moving on to the next step. Naturally, when you want something to happen and fixate on it, it seems to take forever.
There are annoyances creeping up around us: things are breaking or not functioning well in the house, my bike was pilfered with (yes, I used the word "pilfer") by a person trying to steal bike parts, and has been in the bike shop for most of the week, the garden is out of control with weeds, the weather is much like Portland rain in the winter. Get me out of here!
One consolation has been a connection with other moms, who are having experiences just like me. It's nice to hang out over coffee or on a bike ride and vent or enjoy the Danish experience together, as an outsider. I'm grateful for these few dear friends. I look forward to getting their emails in the future, and I'll be able to know exactly what they're going through. Perhaps I would meet up with them at some exotic location in the future. Who knows...
I had no idea I'd write so much. I've been blogging a lot lately. I guess I feel I have so much to say before we leave. I will miss this house because it's been such a sanctuary in our experience here. It's been cozy and welcoming and provided just what we needed. But we move on, and practice impermanance. Belongings don't mean as much as the expereince. It's about the journey, not the vehicle.
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Norge in a Nutshell
It is said, "If you want culture, go to Copnehagen. If you want nature, go to Norway". Last weekend we went to Norway and it gave us all the nature we could hold and more. I absolutely loved it, perhaps because Norway's landscape reminds me so much of the Pacific Northwest, or perhaps because the people are laid back and friendly or perhaps simply because we were just away from Denmark. It took some interesting travel logistics to get us where we want to go and Rick Steves would have been proud. Traveling without a car, our connections were tight but never rushed, and often just steps from accomodation to transportation.
Here's how it went: Thursday we took the overnight ferry from Copenhagen to Oslo, Norway. We had a 4 bunk berth with private bath and a window which was comfortable and cozy. There were at least 5 restaurants and numerous bars on board as well as a movie theater, kids disco, swimming pool and huge shop. We dined at the classical Norwegian all-you-can-eat buffet. Lots of fish, not much salad. The next morning we rose to gray skies and rain, but that was it for the rest of the trip. After breakfasting on Baresso coffee and breads and Molly played at the lego area, we pulled into Norway's capital city and walked from the ferry to the Central Train Station, about 15 minutes.
After picking up our train tickets we boarded the train heading north into the mountains. The first train ride lasted about 5 hours and took us from city to mountains then above tree line into glacial melt and villages surrounded by melting snow. Eventually we came to the town of Myrdal and switched to the second train (5 minutes between) that was the most scenic train ride I've ever experienced. The historic train line was built in the early 1900's, zig-zagging back and forth through mountains and into the Flome Valley. 22 tunnels had to be bored to make it possible. This one-hour ride stops for tourists to take pictures of the waterfalls and pastural landscape as you drop into the beginning of the Sognefjord. I was so overcome with emotion that I actually cried.
We arrived in Flome, a frontier town designed as a connection from tourist train to fjord ferries. While others made connections we hunkered down for the night in a beautiful new hotel, with a family room made just for us. We enjoyed beers and sodas on the deck in the sunshine, looking out over the fjord. The town was so quiet and undisturbed. I guess in the peak season, the town explodes with business.
The next morning I got up early to hike to a nearby waterfall and catch some views. Then, after breakfast we booked and went out on kayaks on the water! It had to be the best weather and water conditions I've ever experienced: clear blue skies, 70 degrees and water as still as ice. Irvin, from Wisconsin was our guide and we messed around in double kayaks for an hour and then headed back in. Unfortunately he had another tour so ours couldn't run longer.
We hung out in the town a little longer to watch the hordes of tourists roll in and out and then caught the high speed ferry to Bergen. This catamaran took us 5 hours from the end of Sognefjord and the highest mountain peaks all the way to the ocean and weaved throughout hundreds of islands in the archpelago of Norway. The captain would slow down every once and a while to point out features, but for the most part we kept going. Once he announced, "to the right you will see the North Sea and.... the sun", which gave us a good laugh. Speaking of the sun, daylight in Norway at this time of year is about 21 hours and even at midnight or 1 am it's never really dark.
Bergen is a historic fishing village with it's own characteristics separate from the rest of Norway. I was surprised how interesting and adorable the town was. Getting off the ferry, our hotel was only a 5 minute walk. After getting our room arranged for sleeping and a late dinner we fell to sleep around 11:30. It had been a long day.
Sunday, our last day, was spent sightseeing around Bergen. Maya had some homework to finish and we were all a little tired, so we mostly stayed in the downtown area - the fish market, the castle, harbor and old fishing quarter. As our big adventure we took the funicular (steep train car) up the mountain to this viewpoint overlooking the city, islands and sea. Again, it couldn't have been a more beautiful day which is rare for Bergen, a city that gets 80 inches of rain annually! This viewpoint had trails and outdoor playgrounds and all sorts of activities up above. We messed around, had a hot dog and then walked the popular trail back down to the city.
He had to dine on local fish and chips right in the harbor, then gathered our things at the hotel and taxi'd to the airport. Funny, how it took 3 days to get to that point, but only 1 hour and 15 minutes to fly back to Copenhagen. The next day was hard on everybody, especially Craig who flew to China for a 7 day trip. It was the kind of travelling that is hard on our bodies - irregular eating, poor sleep, sitting for lengths of time. "Power travel".
I'm now just counting the hours and days until we leave. The weather is crummy with no sign of bettering. I'm slowly packing, tossing, selling, organizing our belongings. I've managed to pre-sell about 70 household items to friends and ex-pat aquaintances. Now it's a matter of when to make the exchange, based on how badly we need that item. Dressers, alarm clocks, telephones, hair dryer, drill, tvs, bike, etc. I'd say that's a common feeling among other moms at CIS. Everybody's ready for school to be done and to get on with leaving to whevever it is they will spend the summer. Copenhagen isn't bad when the weather is nice. But if it's summer and one must wear coats then let's just get the heck out of town.
The packers arrive June 23rd, same day as Maya and Molly's school party days. We're moving into a small hotel in the Trianglen Square for 2 days while the packing is going on. Last day of school is June 24th, Maya graduates from 5th grade, we celebrate and the next morning we leave for Croatia. Closing down life here is nothing compared to what I went through last summer, moving from Portland. I have no anxieties or stress. Very few utilities to shut down, not many farewells and good-byes. We'll quietly slip out of the city as quietly and as unnoticed as when we arrived.
I am longing for a constant to return to our lives. To not have to put on my coat of armour before I walk out the door. To knowing and understanding how things work and relax amongst friends and peers. We are in limbo - not really belonging anywhere except amongst ourselves. But that's powerful in itself.
We congratulate all the Portland students who have finished their school year and SO WISH we could have been part of the 5th grade clap-out at Rieke. An era has passed.
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to www.thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Here's how it went: Thursday we took the overnight ferry from Copenhagen to Oslo, Norway. We had a 4 bunk berth with private bath and a window which was comfortable and cozy. There were at least 5 restaurants and numerous bars on board as well as a movie theater, kids disco, swimming pool and huge shop. We dined at the classical Norwegian all-you-can-eat buffet. Lots of fish, not much salad. The next morning we rose to gray skies and rain, but that was it for the rest of the trip. After breakfasting on Baresso coffee and breads and Molly played at the lego area, we pulled into Norway's capital city and walked from the ferry to the Central Train Station, about 15 minutes.
After picking up our train tickets we boarded the train heading north into the mountains. The first train ride lasted about 5 hours and took us from city to mountains then above tree line into glacial melt and villages surrounded by melting snow. Eventually we came to the town of Myrdal and switched to the second train (5 minutes between) that was the most scenic train ride I've ever experienced. The historic train line was built in the early 1900's, zig-zagging back and forth through mountains and into the Flome Valley. 22 tunnels had to be bored to make it possible. This one-hour ride stops for tourists to take pictures of the waterfalls and pastural landscape as you drop into the beginning of the Sognefjord. I was so overcome with emotion that I actually cried.
We arrived in Flome, a frontier town designed as a connection from tourist train to fjord ferries. While others made connections we hunkered down for the night in a beautiful new hotel, with a family room made just for us. We enjoyed beers and sodas on the deck in the sunshine, looking out over the fjord. The town was so quiet and undisturbed. I guess in the peak season, the town explodes with business.
The next morning I got up early to hike to a nearby waterfall and catch some views. Then, after breakfast we booked and went out on kayaks on the water! It had to be the best weather and water conditions I've ever experienced: clear blue skies, 70 degrees and water as still as ice. Irvin, from Wisconsin was our guide and we messed around in double kayaks for an hour and then headed back in. Unfortunately he had another tour so ours couldn't run longer.
We hung out in the town a little longer to watch the hordes of tourists roll in and out and then caught the high speed ferry to Bergen. This catamaran took us 5 hours from the end of Sognefjord and the highest mountain peaks all the way to the ocean and weaved throughout hundreds of islands in the archpelago of Norway. The captain would slow down every once and a while to point out features, but for the most part we kept going. Once he announced, "to the right you will see the North Sea and.... the sun", which gave us a good laugh. Speaking of the sun, daylight in Norway at this time of year is about 21 hours and even at midnight or 1 am it's never really dark.
Bergen is a historic fishing village with it's own characteristics separate from the rest of Norway. I was surprised how interesting and adorable the town was. Getting off the ferry, our hotel was only a 5 minute walk. After getting our room arranged for sleeping and a late dinner we fell to sleep around 11:30. It had been a long day.
Sunday, our last day, was spent sightseeing around Bergen. Maya had some homework to finish and we were all a little tired, so we mostly stayed in the downtown area - the fish market, the castle, harbor and old fishing quarter. As our big adventure we took the funicular (steep train car) up the mountain to this viewpoint overlooking the city, islands and sea. Again, it couldn't have been a more beautiful day which is rare for Bergen, a city that gets 80 inches of rain annually! This viewpoint had trails and outdoor playgrounds and all sorts of activities up above. We messed around, had a hot dog and then walked the popular trail back down to the city.
He had to dine on local fish and chips right in the harbor, then gathered our things at the hotel and taxi'd to the airport. Funny, how it took 3 days to get to that point, but only 1 hour and 15 minutes to fly back to Copenhagen. The next day was hard on everybody, especially Craig who flew to China for a 7 day trip. It was the kind of travelling that is hard on our bodies - irregular eating, poor sleep, sitting for lengths of time. "Power travel".
I'm now just counting the hours and days until we leave. The weather is crummy with no sign of bettering. I'm slowly packing, tossing, selling, organizing our belongings. I've managed to pre-sell about 70 household items to friends and ex-pat aquaintances. Now it's a matter of when to make the exchange, based on how badly we need that item. Dressers, alarm clocks, telephones, hair dryer, drill, tvs, bike, etc. I'd say that's a common feeling among other moms at CIS. Everybody's ready for school to be done and to get on with leaving to whevever it is they will spend the summer. Copenhagen isn't bad when the weather is nice. But if it's summer and one must wear coats then let's just get the heck out of town.
The packers arrive June 23rd, same day as Maya and Molly's school party days. We're moving into a small hotel in the Trianglen Square for 2 days while the packing is going on. Last day of school is June 24th, Maya graduates from 5th grade, we celebrate and the next morning we leave for Croatia. Closing down life here is nothing compared to what I went through last summer, moving from Portland. I have no anxieties or stress. Very few utilities to shut down, not many farewells and good-byes. We'll quietly slip out of the city as quietly and as unnoticed as when we arrived.
I am longing for a constant to return to our lives. To not have to put on my coat of armour before I walk out the door. To knowing and understanding how things work and relax amongst friends and peers. We are in limbo - not really belonging anywhere except amongst ourselves. But that's powerful in itself.
We congratulate all the Portland students who have finished their school year and SO WISH we could have been part of the 5th grade clap-out at Rieke. An era has passed.
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to www.thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Thursday, June 4, 2009
The Bicycle
I've gone over this blog entry dozens of times in my head, as I pedal the streets of Copenhagen. There's so much to say about bikes and their relationship with the people and the city. I thought, til now, I'd seen everything: Women riding in high heels or mink coats, men riding in business suits, smoking, riders with helmets, and without, babies on the back seats with binkies in their mouths or eating hot dogs and other snacks, babies fallen asleep, moms carting up to 4 kids on their bike attachments in front and back, people talking on their cell phones or texting, teens hauling their friends off the back cage, even people brushing their teeth! I've seen lycra and top-of-the-line gear as well as hacked bikes that are rusting and creaking with no business even operating any more. But yesterday I saw a new one: a boy pulling his home-made stereo on a trailer so he could pump out the music while he rode.
I'm really going to miss bicycling the city and countryside. I love hopping on my bike and riding to places unknown and seeing it all close-up. I love pulling up to the ATM on my bike and withdrawing money and back on the streets in 30 seconds. I love running errands and pulling my bike up to the front door of each spot, never worrying about a parking spot. I love that my body is the machine to get me where I want to go and not the car.
Biking is not necessarily everyone's first commuting choice. It's a matter of economics. Not only are cars expensive here (25% tax on everything) but registration costs 180% of the value of the car. Yes, you read that right. If a car costs $40,000 than the registration is $72,000 in addition to the cost of the car. Many people simply cannot afford that, which makes a $500 bike or a monthly bus pass much more attractive.
And the city is well connected with bike only lanes aside from pedestrians and cars. Cars and bikes respect each other and obey the rules. There's no other way 150,000 people per day in Copenhagen can commute by bike and get along with car drivers. Lycra and bike shorts? Well, for the long commuters who ride fast and far each day, they wear the good gear. But for most people, they just wear their regular work/school/life clothes. If you don't want to sweat, you just go at an easier pace. Bicycling is built into the way of life. You can walk, take the bus or train, or hop on your bike. Often times it takes me less time to get somewhere than to take mass transportation, not to mention the health benefits.
Bike repair shops are everywhere. Get a flat, you can drop it off on your way to work, with a note for the shop owner (who arrives at 10 am) and pick it up at the end of the day. There are rails on steps where bikes need to go up and down and courtesy bike racks everywhere (never enough though). Copenhagen has about 1 million people and supposedly 1.5 million bikes. We own 7 for the 4 of us!
Our neighborhood Danish school was training their primary grades for bike safety last month. Looked like around 4th graders they took out for weekly rides, then they "graduated" with an event. Sounds familiar with the program at Rieke last year. 1 and 2 year olds here start riding on a push bike, where they sit on pedal-less bikes and push with their feet. This gets them balance at an early age and later they can get pedals and skip the training wheels altogether.
I am grateful that I will return to live and bike in Portland, Oregon - one of the most biked cities in America. However, there will be hills and there won't be the ease of bike logisitics, but both Craig and I will try our best.
We just got back from Norway and I will blog about that some time this week. It was stunningly beautiful and very worth the trip.
Love and Light, Mary Jo
Comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
I'm really going to miss bicycling the city and countryside. I love hopping on my bike and riding to places unknown and seeing it all close-up. I love pulling up to the ATM on my bike and withdrawing money and back on the streets in 30 seconds. I love running errands and pulling my bike up to the front door of each spot, never worrying about a parking spot. I love that my body is the machine to get me where I want to go and not the car.
Biking is not necessarily everyone's first commuting choice. It's a matter of economics. Not only are cars expensive here (25% tax on everything) but registration costs 180% of the value of the car. Yes, you read that right. If a car costs $40,000 than the registration is $72,000 in addition to the cost of the car. Many people simply cannot afford that, which makes a $500 bike or a monthly bus pass much more attractive.
And the city is well connected with bike only lanes aside from pedestrians and cars. Cars and bikes respect each other and obey the rules. There's no other way 150,000 people per day in Copenhagen can commute by bike and get along with car drivers. Lycra and bike shorts? Well, for the long commuters who ride fast and far each day, they wear the good gear. But for most people, they just wear their regular work/school/life clothes. If you don't want to sweat, you just go at an easier pace. Bicycling is built into the way of life. You can walk, take the bus or train, or hop on your bike. Often times it takes me less time to get somewhere than to take mass transportation, not to mention the health benefits.
Bike repair shops are everywhere. Get a flat, you can drop it off on your way to work, with a note for the shop owner (who arrives at 10 am) and pick it up at the end of the day. There are rails on steps where bikes need to go up and down and courtesy bike racks everywhere (never enough though). Copenhagen has about 1 million people and supposedly 1.5 million bikes. We own 7 for the 4 of us!
Our neighborhood Danish school was training their primary grades for bike safety last month. Looked like around 4th graders they took out for weekly rides, then they "graduated" with an event. Sounds familiar with the program at Rieke last year. 1 and 2 year olds here start riding on a push bike, where they sit on pedal-less bikes and push with their feet. This gets them balance at an early age and later they can get pedals and skip the training wheels altogether.
I am grateful that I will return to live and bike in Portland, Oregon - one of the most biked cities in America. However, there will be hills and there won't be the ease of bike logisitics, but both Craig and I will try our best.
We just got back from Norway and I will blog about that some time this week. It was stunningly beautiful and very worth the trip.
Love and Light, Mary Jo
Comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Lee and Sheila Cohen Visit and our Trip to Ærø
In our whole time living here we have had two house guests: Carole Vranizan (my mom) last October and Lee and Sheila Cohen (Craig's dad and his wife) who just left 2days ago. These guests have been big emotional boosts for us and offered us something significant to look forward to. Carole came after we had figured out the basics but the Cohens came after we mastered them.
Lee and Sheila arrived early last Tuesday, after a red-eye flight from NYC. The first day, while the girls were at school, I drove them around our neighborhood, the beach and we had an outdoor smorrebrod frokost (lunch) in Dyrehaven (the Deer Park.
The second day I took them downtown for the Strøget (walking street), Nyhavn Harbor, The Changing of the Guards at the Queens Palace, Town Square and lunch at Peder Oxe.
Thursday and Friday were national holidays so Craig and the girls had time off from work and school. After renting a larger car to fit all 6 of us, we took off for Frediksberg Castle in the town of Hillerod, about 40 minutes away. We had not visited this castle yet, hearing that it is the most impressive castle in all of Scandinavia. Rick Steve's comments that it is the "Danish Versaille" did not let us down. We oohed and aahed our way through the grounds and insides. Later that afternoon Molly, Maya and I saw "Night at the Museum 2" while Craig had a business meeting and then Kirk Nichols joined us all for Itzi Pizti pizza at home.
Friday through Sunday we took a trip to Ærø. Ærø is one island over and one down from Zealand. It's a 2 1/2 hour drive and a 75 minute ferry to the town of Ærøskøbing, on Ærø. If you've ever seen the Rick Steve's travel show about Denmark, he raves about Ærø and has spent a lot of personal time there. We've also heard Ærø is in a book called "The 100 Places to Visit Before you Die". Well, we made it and it was spectacular so I guess we can all go to our graves blissfully fulfilled! Ærø has 3 big towns, numerous villages, 5,000 population and 500,000 visitors a year.
The old village of has been preserved in original 17th century. It takes all of about 45 minutes to walk the entire town, and that's at a slow saunter. We stayed at an Inn that dates to 1830's but our rooms were fortunately newly renovated. From our hotel we could walk to the harbor, through the village, rent bikes and ride the countryside. The countryside is filled with farms for cattle and wheat that spill right into the ocean. Most homes are still working "gaards" or 3 sided-buildings that shelter the wind and elements and include barn, workshop and house. Some homes and one church date back to the 13th century. The air was so fresh and clear and people friendly and charming - they smiled and waved. I think the farther we get away from the big city, the friendlier the Danes seem to be. Either that or a more relaxed lifestyle. Shops are open only a few hours a day, except during peak tourist season, July and August.
As remote as we were, we still managed to book a hotel room across the hall from another CIS family! and down the hall from the director of the school! Not only that, we all made reservations the first night in the same restaurant. Not much of a coincidence actually, when there were only two restaurants to choose from. On Saturday Craig took the gang into Marstal to see a fantastic Maritime museum and to view other villages while I rode 20 miles around the island.
We took an early ferry off the island Sunday morning and then drove north to Odense to the Hans Christian Anderson Museum. Being one of Denmark's 10 most well-known citizens, we owed it to ourselves to learn more about him. H.C. is a big man around these parts. Every detail about his life has been painstakingly documented in this museum, brought ot life in movies and statues and volumes of his in 150 different languages. Did you know that H.C. Anderson is the author with the most translations to other languages? I think he and Ann Frank are competitors.
I realize now why Danes are so intent on their history and proud of their heritage. They have a museum for every aspect of their lives, from post offices to authors to vikings to castles. Folks make outings to these places and absorb everything about being a Dane. One can't help but maintain pride and ownership of their country. and that's perhaps one reason why they would be slow to change their monetary system, let go of their monarchy, or willing to join the EU. But that's my opinion.
The last full day with Lee and Sheila was spend back downtown where we hit the highlights again, and then some: Lagkaghuset, the best bakery in town, where we sampled sweets and breads, over the river to the walking street, shopped in Georg Jensen and Illums Bolighus, walked up to the top of the Round Tower (a real feat for Sheila!) ate a hot dog in Kongen's Nytorv and walked through Rosenborg Castle and gardens before training home. The girls really enjoyed their time with the grandparents, playing the penny game, doing puzzles, teaching Papa Lee how to play Wii, and silly card games. All-in-all it was memorable trip for them all.
I'm feeling a little tired and grateful for a little rain to force me inside and rest. I tried playing tennis yesterday for the first time in 2 weeks but reinjured my achilles. (Just came back from the doctor who said that if I'm not careful I will rupture my achilles tendon and then I'd be facing surgery. So, I have to avoid all weight bearing exercise, don't stretch it at all and wear shoes with a heel. It could take weeks to feel better).
Maya is on the last few days of her Exhibition Project, meeting with her team this weekend to polish their presenation for Tuesday morning. Molly is beginning a Habitats 2 week project and has yet another all day field trip to a nature center next week. Craig is working more and more at his new LaCrosse position, and relinquishing more of his Danish job to locals. He still rides his bike to work at least 3 days a week and on weekends and is the leanest he's been since high school. I posted and sold more than half of our european belongings already and will continue to advertise until they're all gone. Too bad Craig's List is so unused here, or it'd be a snap. Seems as though farewell parties are very popular social occasions for the ex-pat moms and wives leaving. My friend Geeta is throwing a party for our American friend Gail and I on the 16th of June, at her house. There seems to be a party going on somewhere for someone every day for a few weeks.
This weekend we're cleaning out closets (amazing how much you can accumulate in 1 year) and sorting for moving. We'll be gone the following weekend for 4 days in Norway and then Craig will be in Asia the week after. We are moving out on June 23rd, into a hotel apartment for 2 nights while the movers pack the house. I will be sad to leave this Danish sanctuary. It's been a safe, uplifting haven and an incubator of all of our growth this year.
One final note. The pictures you are seeing with this blog entry were DELETED mistakenly on the ferry ride back from Ærø. I had a complete melt down and was beside myself with loathing and disappointment. 2 days later I investigated recovery software and after paying a pretty penny for it, got all the pictures back. I am continuing to learn more about technical stuff than I ever really cared to, but I have to keep up with my kids somehow!
This entry has been way too long, so I'll cut it off, except to say that we need to get our kids back to the USA: Molly completely forgot what the tv sitcom "Seinfeld" was. I brought home DVDs from the library to get her caught up. No member of the Cohen household can go without! And side note to Jill Fitzpatrick - I've go tthe kids watching old episodes of Little House on The Prairie. More to follow
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Lee and Sheila arrived early last Tuesday, after a red-eye flight from NYC. The first day, while the girls were at school, I drove them around our neighborhood, the beach and we had an outdoor smorrebrod frokost (lunch) in Dyrehaven (the Deer Park.
The second day I took them downtown for the Strøget (walking street), Nyhavn Harbor, The Changing of the Guards at the Queens Palace, Town Square and lunch at Peder Oxe.
Thursday and Friday were national holidays so Craig and the girls had time off from work and school. After renting a larger car to fit all 6 of us, we took off for Frediksberg Castle in the town of Hillerod, about 40 minutes away. We had not visited this castle yet, hearing that it is the most impressive castle in all of Scandinavia. Rick Steve's comments that it is the "Danish Versaille" did not let us down. We oohed and aahed our way through the grounds and insides. Later that afternoon Molly, Maya and I saw "Night at the Museum 2" while Craig had a business meeting and then Kirk Nichols joined us all for Itzi Pizti pizza at home.
Friday through Sunday we took a trip to Ærø. Ærø is one island over and one down from Zealand. It's a 2 1/2 hour drive and a 75 minute ferry to the town of Ærøskøbing, on Ærø. If you've ever seen the Rick Steve's travel show about Denmark, he raves about Ærø and has spent a lot of personal time there. We've also heard Ærø is in a book called "The 100 Places to Visit Before you Die". Well, we made it and it was spectacular so I guess we can all go to our graves blissfully fulfilled! Ærø has 3 big towns, numerous villages, 5,000 population and 500,000 visitors a year.
The old village of has been preserved in original 17th century. It takes all of about 45 minutes to walk the entire town, and that's at a slow saunter. We stayed at an Inn that dates to 1830's but our rooms were fortunately newly renovated. From our hotel we could walk to the harbor, through the village, rent bikes and ride the countryside. The countryside is filled with farms for cattle and wheat that spill right into the ocean. Most homes are still working "gaards" or 3 sided-buildings that shelter the wind and elements and include barn, workshop and house. Some homes and one church date back to the 13th century. The air was so fresh and clear and people friendly and charming - they smiled and waved. I think the farther we get away from the big city, the friendlier the Danes seem to be. Either that or a more relaxed lifestyle. Shops are open only a few hours a day, except during peak tourist season, July and August.
As remote as we were, we still managed to book a hotel room across the hall from another CIS family! and down the hall from the director of the school! Not only that, we all made reservations the first night in the same restaurant. Not much of a coincidence actually, when there were only two restaurants to choose from. On Saturday Craig took the gang into Marstal to see a fantastic Maritime museum and to view other villages while I rode 20 miles around the island.
We took an early ferry off the island Sunday morning and then drove north to Odense to the Hans Christian Anderson Museum. Being one of Denmark's 10 most well-known citizens, we owed it to ourselves to learn more about him. H.C. is a big man around these parts. Every detail about his life has been painstakingly documented in this museum, brought ot life in movies and statues and volumes of his in 150 different languages. Did you know that H.C. Anderson is the author with the most translations to other languages? I think he and Ann Frank are competitors.
I realize now why Danes are so intent on their history and proud of their heritage. They have a museum for every aspect of their lives, from post offices to authors to vikings to castles. Folks make outings to these places and absorb everything about being a Dane. One can't help but maintain pride and ownership of their country. and that's perhaps one reason why they would be slow to change their monetary system, let go of their monarchy, or willing to join the EU. But that's my opinion.
The last full day with Lee and Sheila was spend back downtown where we hit the highlights again, and then some: Lagkaghuset, the best bakery in town, where we sampled sweets and breads, over the river to the walking street, shopped in Georg Jensen and Illums Bolighus, walked up to the top of the Round Tower (a real feat for Sheila!) ate a hot dog in Kongen's Nytorv and walked through Rosenborg Castle and gardens before training home. The girls really enjoyed their time with the grandparents, playing the penny game, doing puzzles, teaching Papa Lee how to play Wii, and silly card games. All-in-all it was memorable trip for them all.
I'm feeling a little tired and grateful for a little rain to force me inside and rest. I tried playing tennis yesterday for the first time in 2 weeks but reinjured my achilles. (Just came back from the doctor who said that if I'm not careful I will rupture my achilles tendon and then I'd be facing surgery. So, I have to avoid all weight bearing exercise, don't stretch it at all and wear shoes with a heel. It could take weeks to feel better).
Maya is on the last few days of her Exhibition Project, meeting with her team this weekend to polish their presenation for Tuesday morning. Molly is beginning a Habitats 2 week project and has yet another all day field trip to a nature center next week. Craig is working more and more at his new LaCrosse position, and relinquishing more of his Danish job to locals. He still rides his bike to work at least 3 days a week and on weekends and is the leanest he's been since high school. I posted and sold more than half of our european belongings already and will continue to advertise until they're all gone. Too bad Craig's List is so unused here, or it'd be a snap. Seems as though farewell parties are very popular social occasions for the ex-pat moms and wives leaving. My friend Geeta is throwing a party for our American friend Gail and I on the 16th of June, at her house. There seems to be a party going on somewhere for someone every day for a few weeks.
This weekend we're cleaning out closets (amazing how much you can accumulate in 1 year) and sorting for moving. We'll be gone the following weekend for 4 days in Norway and then Craig will be in Asia the week after. We are moving out on June 23rd, into a hotel apartment for 2 nights while the movers pack the house. I will be sad to leave this Danish sanctuary. It's been a safe, uplifting haven and an incubator of all of our growth this year.
One final note. The pictures you are seeing with this blog entry were DELETED mistakenly on the ferry ride back from Ærø. I had a complete melt down and was beside myself with loathing and disappointment. 2 days later I investigated recovery software and after paying a pretty penny for it, got all the pictures back. I am continuing to learn more about technical stuff than I ever really cared to, but I have to keep up with my kids somehow!
This entry has been way too long, so I'll cut it off, except to say that we need to get our kids back to the USA: Molly completely forgot what the tv sitcom "Seinfeld" was. I brought home DVDs from the library to get her caught up. No member of the Cohen household can go without! And side note to Jill Fitzpatrick - I've go tthe kids watching old episodes of Little House on The Prairie. More to follow
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Jylland Trip
As the weather gets progressively warmer, we are furiously packing in activities in the out of doors. As promised to the girls when we moved here, we booked a trip to LegoLand in Jutland. Jutland (written Jylland and pronounced "Yoo-lan") is the largest Danish island and lies furthest west. One leaves Copenhagen on the east coast of Sealand, drives over a 20 km bridge span to get to a smaller connecting island, Odense, and then over another bridge to Jutland. Legoland lies about in the center and is about a 2 1/5 hour drive with good traffic.
The girls and I packed up last Friday and left on St. Bededag (National Prayer Day) which is a national holiday. Seems as though there were too many religious holidays over the year so they combined them into one. Most children of age get confirmed in the Lutheran church on this day and there are family celebrations all over the country. We found that driving to Jutland was slow for all the relatives getting home to be with families.
Maya, Molly and I explored our hotel and Legoland the first day, taking it easy. The weather was a little cool and windy. Craig arrived late to the hotel from London (flying into Billund airport, built basically for the Lego and LegoLand's needs). Then Saturday we attacked LegoLand when the gates opened, headed right for the Quick Pass machine and ordered up the rides of our choice, with no waiting lines. The weather was typical: partyly sunny, breezy and mid 50's. After 4 hours we had seen and done everything we wanted and the park was so crowded that we knew it was time to go. This particular park was geared toward the younger age group and while the Lego sculptures were fantastic, and the park was clean and friendly, it was worth doing once and moving on.
That afternoon we drove an hour north to the town of Silkeborg in the "lakes district". We stayed right in downtown in a Youth Hostel (private bunk room with bath) on the river. We walked all around this pretty city, had dinner at a Mongolian Grill and excellent italian ice cream. We played games and read in our private bunk house and woke to brilliant sunshine the next morning. The hostel, like most inns here, served a buffet breakfast of incredibly fresh white and dark grainy breads, muesli, cheeses, meats (pate too, of course), fruits, yogurts and coffee by the urnful.
Not really knowing the youth hostel way, we were surprised that we needed to do our own cleaning and stripping the (rented) sheets before checking out. So after our morning chores, checking out and packing the car we set out on foot to explore Denmark's only forest. We had a lovely walk through rolling hillsides and arborous views. There was a mountain bike race going on that made us long for single track trail in the Oregon woods. Over the 5 km trail, the girls collected sticks, laughed with each other and Craig and I were able to talk undisturbed by cell phone.
Later we drover yet another hour north to the town of Viborg where a Danish work associate of Craig's lives and invited us to join his family for lunch. Jesper and Pia have 2 girls, ages 6 and 9. They served a typical Danish smorbrod lunch of breads, meats, fish (yes, herring too) eggs, cucumbers and tomatoes. Coke and beer to drink. The girls got along tremendously despite the language barrier, playing on the swing set, with dolls and toys and the family dog. After lunch we strolled through their neighborhood, the woods and to the lake nearby. They plied us with dessert and more coffee and wished me a happy mother's day, which all of us had completely forgotten. They don't celebrate Mothers' Day here, so it slipped right back our consciences.
All that was left was a 4 hour drive back home through the pastural countrysides of Jutland. Nothing but farmlands and small towns. Spring is the best time to be in Denmark. We arrived home about 8:30 pm from our 3 day journey. The girls had school the next day and it was very difficult to get to bed. It stays light until 10 at night. The sun actually rises at 5 am, but there is almost an hour of daylight prior to that. The birds start chirping around 3 am. They chirp at night when we go to bed too. It's so weird to go to bed with light and wake with light. Thank goodness for black-out curtains.
The PTA is gearing up for the Spring Fair at school. This is an annual fundraiser event with games, food, auction, prizes and fun for the whole family. Craig will be grilling burgers at the American Table (see that McMenamins training comes in handy!) and I'll be working the 5th grade game. Other than that, Maya is continuing to work on her Exhibition project, Molly is doing her things and we are awaiting the arrival of Lee and Sheila Cohen this Tuesday for a week visit.
Yesterday I rode downtown, bought an organic salad at my favorite shop, and sat and ate on the Gammel Strand and watched the tourist boats on their canal tours. Later, rode to the King's Library and then over to Norrebro for an appointment. The city is pretty awesome. And the tourists have arrived! It's like some one opened the gates and put out a sign that says "We're Open". Everywhere you look there is a tourist with a map, double decker buses and canal boats full of gawkers, packed walking street, museums and shops. And a lot more English being spoken. It always startles me when I hear other Americans!
Well, off to the next adventure,
Love and Light,
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
The girls and I packed up last Friday and left on St. Bededag (National Prayer Day) which is a national holiday. Seems as though there were too many religious holidays over the year so they combined them into one. Most children of age get confirmed in the Lutheran church on this day and there are family celebrations all over the country. We found that driving to Jutland was slow for all the relatives getting home to be with families.
Maya, Molly and I explored our hotel and Legoland the first day, taking it easy. The weather was a little cool and windy. Craig arrived late to the hotel from London (flying into Billund airport, built basically for the Lego and LegoLand's needs). Then Saturday we attacked LegoLand when the gates opened, headed right for the Quick Pass machine and ordered up the rides of our choice, with no waiting lines. The weather was typical: partyly sunny, breezy and mid 50's. After 4 hours we had seen and done everything we wanted and the park was so crowded that we knew it was time to go. This particular park was geared toward the younger age group and while the Lego sculptures were fantastic, and the park was clean and friendly, it was worth doing once and moving on.
That afternoon we drove an hour north to the town of Silkeborg in the "lakes district". We stayed right in downtown in a Youth Hostel (private bunk room with bath) on the river. We walked all around this pretty city, had dinner at a Mongolian Grill and excellent italian ice cream. We played games and read in our private bunk house and woke to brilliant sunshine the next morning. The hostel, like most inns here, served a buffet breakfast of incredibly fresh white and dark grainy breads, muesli, cheeses, meats (pate too, of course), fruits, yogurts and coffee by the urnful.
Not really knowing the youth hostel way, we were surprised that we needed to do our own cleaning and stripping the (rented) sheets before checking out. So after our morning chores, checking out and packing the car we set out on foot to explore Denmark's only forest. We had a lovely walk through rolling hillsides and arborous views. There was a mountain bike race going on that made us long for single track trail in the Oregon woods. Over the 5 km trail, the girls collected sticks, laughed with each other and Craig and I were able to talk undisturbed by cell phone.
Later we drover yet another hour north to the town of Viborg where a Danish work associate of Craig's lives and invited us to join his family for lunch. Jesper and Pia have 2 girls, ages 6 and 9. They served a typical Danish smorbrod lunch of breads, meats, fish (yes, herring too) eggs, cucumbers and tomatoes. Coke and beer to drink. The girls got along tremendously despite the language barrier, playing on the swing set, with dolls and toys and the family dog. After lunch we strolled through their neighborhood, the woods and to the lake nearby. They plied us with dessert and more coffee and wished me a happy mother's day, which all of us had completely forgotten. They don't celebrate Mothers' Day here, so it slipped right back our consciences.
All that was left was a 4 hour drive back home through the pastural countrysides of Jutland. Nothing but farmlands and small towns. Spring is the best time to be in Denmark. We arrived home about 8:30 pm from our 3 day journey. The girls had school the next day and it was very difficult to get to bed. It stays light until 10 at night. The sun actually rises at 5 am, but there is almost an hour of daylight prior to that. The birds start chirping around 3 am. They chirp at night when we go to bed too. It's so weird to go to bed with light and wake with light. Thank goodness for black-out curtains.
The PTA is gearing up for the Spring Fair at school. This is an annual fundraiser event with games, food, auction, prizes and fun for the whole family. Craig will be grilling burgers at the American Table (see that McMenamins training comes in handy!) and I'll be working the 5th grade game. Other than that, Maya is continuing to work on her Exhibition project, Molly is doing her things and we are awaiting the arrival of Lee and Sheila Cohen this Tuesday for a week visit.
Yesterday I rode downtown, bought an organic salad at my favorite shop, and sat and ate on the Gammel Strand and watched the tourist boats on their canal tours. Later, rode to the King's Library and then over to Norrebro for an appointment. The city is pretty awesome. And the tourists have arrived! It's like some one opened the gates and put out a sign that says "We're Open". Everywhere you look there is a tourist with a map, double decker buses and canal boats full of gawkers, packed walking street, museums and shops. And a lot more English being spoken. It always startles me when I hear other Americans!
Well, off to the next adventure,
Love and Light,
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Exhaling in Danmark
The weather has brought out a much happier demeanor in myself, my family and what seems like everyone else I come in contact with. The temperature has been above 50 degrees daily, and often in the 60's since the beginning of April. It's an unusual record for Denmark, but I'll take it. Finally, for the first time since moving here, I am warm. It's different that working up body heat on a bike, or wearing a ski coat with hat and gloves. The sun is penetrating and strong, the flowers are blooming on trees and people are showing skin on arms and legs!
When we arrived last August, the summer had already ended and we encountered rain and winds for the first couple of months, mixed in with a few nice days. I am told April to June are the nicest months, so we'll go out on a high note. Everything just seems to click better now. We're adjusting to most things beautifully and we encounter little stress. Life is good. I just looked at my calendar and May is our last full month living here. Late May and early June I'll have to start organizing our process of moving back to the U.S. but for now, I'm going go savor the freedom, the weather and new friends.
Last week I went on a Copenhagen City Walking Tour with a group of parents from the school. It was quite entertaining and full of city trivia.
For example, the old city streets used to be lower, but in the 17th century everyone threw their garbage on the streets and it piled up and squashed down and eventually the streets got higher. That is why we often have to walk a few steps down to door entrances!
City lights used to be lit by whale blubber! Can you imagine the smell?
And some the streets in the 16th - 18th centuries had open sewers. That plus the garbage made the city really a sight. The water was water was unfit to drink so people drank beer and aquavit (schnapps) because it was safe. Workplaces were mandated to give each employee a large bottle of beer and a small bottle of aquavit at their workstation to quench their thirst. How's that for work efficiency? That's why today still, drinking alcohol is second nature to most Danes. Many individuals drink beer like water, wine is always served with meals and teenagers and adults alike drink excessively. (that could also be why Danes drink the highest amount of coffee per capita than any other country!)
The great city of Copenhagen burned on many occasions, destroying some of the oldest buildings and churches. What's left today are only a handful from the 16th century, a little more from the 17th and quite a bit from the 18th century. According to our walking guide, these fires were caused by timbered buildings, candles and lamps and a strong wind. The constables in charge of unlocking the wells and assisting to put out the fires were usually too drunk to manage the job.
In the oldest church in the old city, St. Peter's, they used to bury the rich in the basement. It was quite a status thing and the more money you had, the closer you were buried to the altar. However, by the 18th century the smell of the graves became too offensive and they stopped the ritual. That's how they came up with the term "stinking rich"!
Bakeries didn't actually bake breads and desserts for the people, they were simply places with ovens where residents could bring their doughs for baking. This is the oldest bakery in Copenhagen. The pretzel and crown sign is a symbol for a trade union, that certifies a guaranteed level of products. Unfortunately for us, they don't serve pretzels...
Behind extremely nondescript doorways lie quiet, private courtyards. some are completely private and others are central areas for older apartments, cafes or other places. Walking in and out of them
really gives one the feeling of the city being an intricate maze of cobblestone, alleys, and all the nooks and crannies of the old walled city. You can leave a very busy, noisy road and within minutes inside a courtyard have absolute quiet. It is here we were pointed out to the wall anchors. Since almost all building are made of brick or stone which expands and contracts with the heat and cold, wall anchors are built fro
m one end to the other to keep it from falling apart.Lastly, commoners used to eat in Guest Houses or neighborhoods inns for their regular meals because most did not have kitchens or do their own cooking. These inns would have long wooden plank tables with bowl-like divets cut into each place-setting at the table. The propieter would serve the meal directly into the "bowl". The fork was attached to the table so it couldn't be stolen. People brought their own knives. So, the fork and bowl were used over and over by different people. With that and the open sewers, no potable drinking water, garbage on the streets, whale blubber for light and smoke from fires the city was a pretty nasty place. No wonder so many people died of disease by the age of 40.
There is much more to tell, but alas, I must return to the 21st century and get my children off to school and myself off to other adventures. Love and Light, Mary Jo
comments to: thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
The Cliffs of Moon
Just have to quickly show and tell our family adventure last weekend to the Cliffs of Moon Island. In Danish it is "Mons Klint". They are a set of oceanside cliffs made primarily of chalk, that give off a whitish hue. The Cliffs are on an island south of Zealand, the island where Copenhagen is situated. We went last Saturday along with Maya's friend Madison "Maddy". It was an hour and 45 minute drive, viewing flat farmland as usual, but with budding tree blossoms and green grasses.
There are miles of hiking trails around the top, as well as campsites and places to have lunch. About 170 stairs to take you up to the top of the cliffs for viewing and more hiking. Also very windy. Another set of 500 stairs take you down to the beach where you can walk for long stretches when the tide is out. We arrived for the last bit of easterly sun before the cliffs cast a colder shadow. The girls collected really interesting rocks and the views were so relaxing and peaceful.
We had lunch in the cafe/museum (par for every Danish landmark) and not suprised by beautiful salads and the general quality of cuisine that we find par for the entire country, even in the most remote locations.
We stopped for ice cream on the way back and the girls all fell asleep. Nothing like a road trip nap.
Sunday, after family chore time, we hit Tivoli amusement park right after it opened, around Noon. We bought annual passes at Christmas and now have to use them a lot before we move. The weather was beautiful and there were relatively no lines. Maya went on the bumper cars about 6 times while Molly went on the Demon twice with Craig. I went with them once on the Demon (the roller coaster that does 2 loop-de-loops) and then Molly and I went on a ride that takes you straight up 10 stories high and drops you in 1 second. I don't know where I mustered the courage to do that one, and I was speechless afterward. Molly was fine. She loves thrill.
We've been out in the back yard more and more now that the weather is nicer. We play bocci, throw the softball or practice lacrosse or just hang out. We have daylight around 5 am til almost 9 pm. Our bedtime routine is getting later and later and the girls are waking up later and later because of it.
Maya has a cold this week. Nothing serious, but stayed home one day. Molly powers out the rides to school and back, while Maya prefers the bus when she can weasle out of riding. The funny thing is that it's more convenient and faster by bike!
Craig just spent 2 days in Aarhus and will head to USA for a week on Saturday. He managed to buy a push mower yesterday (on Earth Day!) and got out to work on the jungle last night after his drive home. We've decided to cut it ourself since the professional lawn service was charging us over $200 per cut last fall. The push mower was only $80. It's a cheap, hard to use contraption but we won't have to use it for very long.
62 days until we leave Denmark (70 until we're in USA). It's going by terribly fast. But we're enjoying every day as best we can.
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
There are miles of hiking trails around the top, as well as campsites and places to have lunch. About 170 stairs to take you up to the top of the cliffs for viewing and more hiking. Also very windy. Another set of 500 stairs take you down to the beach where you can walk for long stretches when the tide is out. We arrived for the last bit of easterly sun before the cliffs cast a colder shadow. The girls collected really interesting rocks and the views were so relaxing and peaceful.
We had lunch in the cafe/museum (par for every Danish landmark) and not suprised by beautiful salads and the general quality of cuisine that we find par for the entire country, even in the most remote locations.
We stopped for ice cream on the way back and the girls all fell asleep. Nothing like a road trip nap.
Sunday, after family chore time, we hit Tivoli amusement park right after it opened, around Noon. We bought annual passes at Christmas and now have to use them a lot before we move. The weather was beautiful and there were relatively no lines. Maya went on the bumper cars about 6 times while Molly went on the Demon twice with Craig. I went with them once on the Demon (the roller coaster that does 2 loop-de-loops) and then Molly and I went on a ride that takes you straight up 10 stories high and drops you in 1 second. I don't know where I mustered the courage to do that one, and I was speechless afterward. Molly was fine. She loves thrill.
We've been out in the back yard more and more now that the weather is nicer. We play bocci, throw the softball or practice lacrosse or just hang out. We have daylight around 5 am til almost 9 pm. Our bedtime routine is getting later and later and the girls are waking up later and later because of it.
Maya has a cold this week. Nothing serious, but stayed home one day. Molly powers out the rides to school and back, while Maya prefers the bus when she can weasle out of riding. The funny thing is that it's more convenient and faster by bike!
Craig just spent 2 days in Aarhus and will head to USA for a week on Saturday. He managed to buy a push mower yesterday (on Earth Day!) and got out to work on the jungle last night after his drive home. We've decided to cut it ourself since the professional lawn service was charging us over $200 per cut last fall. The push mower was only $80. It's a cheap, hard to use contraption but we won't have to use it for very long.
62 days until we leave Denmark (70 until we're in USA). It's going by terribly fast. But we're enjoying every day as best we can.
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Spring Break in Portland
What a fantastic trip we had in Portland last week! Thanks to all our family and friends who joined us at various times throughout the week for a visit or to share a meal. Even though we are moving back in less than 3 months, the fact was that we hadn't been home in 9 months and that's a very long time to be away. It did our hearts and souls a lot of good to share hugs and kisses and to hear that we've been missed. This family, each of us - has been through our own personal challenges and we needed a trip home more than a trip off to another confusing country. It was so relieving not only to enter our own country where we knew the language and culture, but our own neighborhood where knew the haunts and favorite restuarants, etc. We didn't need our navigation system, to find and check into hotels, wonder where to eat and what tourist excursions to drag the kids on. It was great to be in town and not have domestic or career activities to drag us down. We got to do nothing but see, friends, eat, shop, a few doctor and dentist appointments and the like and then see more friends and family and eat again.
Special Thanks to John and Carole Vranizan, Menendez', our camping buddies (McBarrons, Loux's, Mackies, Osborns and the Hehns), The Fitzpatricks, McCarters, James', Reunerts, Garnands, McDonalds, Linda McCarter, Benschings, Panet-Raymonds, and everybody at Rieke Elementary.
Back in Denmark now for 5 days. My head stayed behind and is slowly catching up with my physical body. The girls adjusted to the time zone very quickly but Craig and I have had several sleepless nights. We should settle after a week or so.
Upon arrival to Copenhagen airport, during the cab ride home and into our house we had an eerie sense of belonging and familiarity that we weren't expecting. We traveled 12 hours around the globe to walk into our house and be "home". It was easy and comfortable this time. Not like the first arrival 9 months ago when we slept on air mattresses in a completely empty flat. We had the same feeling of relief after coming back from our fall trip to Spain, but this spring trip was even stronger. Even though our hearts are in Portland, I can begin to see how we could begin to feel connected to Denmark, or any country for that matter, simply by the sheer fact of time: The longer one spends in one place, the easier it is. (Ergo my 3 generations of family in Portland.)
Maya and Molly instantly jumped back into friends and school with no hesitation. We had Easter Monday off before school and work and the girls quickly arranged playdates. They seem more vibrant, interested in school and excited. Maybe it's their comfort level is better, maybe they are more confident, maybe this spectacular spring weather (that could raise a dead man from the grave!)or maybe they are looking forward to the return to Portland or it could be all of the above.
Craig and I have noticed phenomenal changes in Maya's demeanor. For the first time in her life she's talking about her fears, her feelings and her issues with no prompting from us at all. She's speaking with a mature understanding and clarity that almost seems like it's been incubating inside of her for years. This experience has challenged her and has brought out a new, bolder girl with less anxieties. She has found her voice. Her fifth grade will end with a 6 week long exhibition-project that has begun this week. She seems determined already.
Molly struggles with growing up and still being the baby. She's had to go through a lot for a little girl and hasn't quite reached the threshold where she's comfortable making her own decisions. She constantly needs reassurance. However, at school, she is a leader and empathetic friend. Molly needs to be active and playing all the time. She'll be fine wherever she goes, as long as there's someone to play with. And not her sister. These sisters are sick of each other.
In addition to riding and working out almost daily, I'm planning day trips and weekend excursions for the rest of our stay here. Lots of time checking ferry and train schedules, car routes, sightseeing books, etc. This weekend we're going to the white cliffs of Mons Klint (kind of like the white cliffs of Dover, England - but Danish style) and probably hit Tivoli Amusement park as well. The weather is so uplifting and streams of daylight and sunshine. If you even want to visit Denmark, do it in April - June.
These blog postings are getting harder and harder to write because as time goes on there's less tangible transitions in our day-to-day lives to report about. There's more internal changing that is stewing within that often takes weeks or months to think about and ponder before final oration. The way I feel one day may evolve into another the next. I feel as if I'm practicing "svadyaya" - one of the 8 branches of yoga that involves self study. This practice involves watching and paying attention to your life as you are living it, like writing your manuscript while experiencing it. Often, I need to step away from analyzing and just live. If I blog too much, then I spend more energy on trying to understand instead of on simply living.
Regardless, this experience has been a blessing in our lives and I am grateful for every challenge and joy. Thanks for reading,
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to: thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Special Thanks to John and Carole Vranizan, Menendez', our camping buddies (McBarrons, Loux's, Mackies, Osborns and the Hehns), The Fitzpatricks, McCarters, James', Reunerts, Garnands, McDonalds, Linda McCarter, Benschings, Panet-Raymonds, and everybody at Rieke Elementary.
Back in Denmark now for 5 days. My head stayed behind and is slowly catching up with my physical body. The girls adjusted to the time zone very quickly but Craig and I have had several sleepless nights. We should settle after a week or so.
Upon arrival to Copenhagen airport, during the cab ride home and into our house we had an eerie sense of belonging and familiarity that we weren't expecting. We traveled 12 hours around the globe to walk into our house and be "home". It was easy and comfortable this time. Not like the first arrival 9 months ago when we slept on air mattresses in a completely empty flat. We had the same feeling of relief after coming back from our fall trip to Spain, but this spring trip was even stronger. Even though our hearts are in Portland, I can begin to see how we could begin to feel connected to Denmark, or any country for that matter, simply by the sheer fact of time: The longer one spends in one place, the easier it is. (Ergo my 3 generations of family in Portland.)
Maya and Molly instantly jumped back into friends and school with no hesitation. We had Easter Monday off before school and work and the girls quickly arranged playdates. They seem more vibrant, interested in school and excited. Maybe it's their comfort level is better, maybe they are more confident, maybe this spectacular spring weather (that could raise a dead man from the grave!)or maybe they are looking forward to the return to Portland or it could be all of the above.
Craig and I have noticed phenomenal changes in Maya's demeanor. For the first time in her life she's talking about her fears, her feelings and her issues with no prompting from us at all. She's speaking with a mature understanding and clarity that almost seems like it's been incubating inside of her for years. This experience has challenged her and has brought out a new, bolder girl with less anxieties. She has found her voice. Her fifth grade will end with a 6 week long exhibition-project that has begun this week. She seems determined already.
Molly struggles with growing up and still being the baby. She's had to go through a lot for a little girl and hasn't quite reached the threshold where she's comfortable making her own decisions. She constantly needs reassurance. However, at school, she is a leader and empathetic friend. Molly needs to be active and playing all the time. She'll be fine wherever she goes, as long as there's someone to play with. And not her sister. These sisters are sick of each other.
In addition to riding and working out almost daily, I'm planning day trips and weekend excursions for the rest of our stay here. Lots of time checking ferry and train schedules, car routes, sightseeing books, etc. This weekend we're going to the white cliffs of Mons Klint (kind of like the white cliffs of Dover, England - but Danish style) and probably hit Tivoli Amusement park as well. The weather is so uplifting and streams of daylight and sunshine. If you even want to visit Denmark, do it in April - June.
These blog postings are getting harder and harder to write because as time goes on there's less tangible transitions in our day-to-day lives to report about. There's more internal changing that is stewing within that often takes weeks or months to think about and ponder before final oration. The way I feel one day may evolve into another the next. I feel as if I'm practicing "svadyaya" - one of the 8 branches of yoga that involves self study. This practice involves watching and paying attention to your life as you are living it, like writing your manuscript while experiencing it. Often, I need to step away from analyzing and just live. If I blog too much, then I spend more energy on trying to understand instead of on simply living.
Regardless, this experience has been a blessing in our lives and I am grateful for every challenge and joy. Thanks for reading,
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to: thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Friday, March 27, 2009
5 Days Away from a Portland Visit
While many of our friends are leaving for exotic destinations around the globe next week for Spring Break, we will head for Portland. This flight has been planned since we bought our tickets last June and even though we're moving back in summer, it'll be good to see friends, family and take care of a lot of business and shopping. It will be strange to "vacation" in the town we live in, but we will do our best. The girls want to attend Rieke a few days, Craig will go in to the LaCrosse office a couple but for the most part we will be busy just catching up with seeing everyone.
The last two weeks have flown by for me. One museum outing with lady friends, CIS Dinner Dance, 2 luncheons with CIS friends, 2 days spent with my sister Teresa who was in town again (including a fun day in Sweden) and on top of that lots of walking, biking, tennis and my usual yoga/strength routine. It's now Saturday morning and I'm looking forward to a weekend of chores, food shopping, laundry and such. Craig and I are seeing a play by an English Production Company tonight and dinner out.
Craig's had a long week with LaCrosse people in town. The office was a hub of activity until late hours. He's begun to mingle his new U.S. job responsibilities with his current Danish ones. The Controller he hired the first of January is doing a bang-up job and will assume some of the managerial responsibilities while the Portland Marketing Dept. will take others. Craig will travel to the U.S. at least twice and to China once before we move home in June.
We're trying to cram little excursions in here and there amidst Maya's big 5th grade "exhibition" project, end-of-year school parties and packing up. We hope to get to Stockholm, The fjords of Norway, Legoland (on the big island of Denmark) and Croatia after school is over. Sounds crazy but we just have to do it.
Molly continues to create a busy social life. She has a sleepover with a different friend every weekend and at least 2 playdates after school each week. She aces what little homework she gets and has become a stronger reader. Maya likes to come home after school and hang out, do computer games, homework and read. She has one or two playdates a week as well. She confided in me last night that she's torn about moving back to Portland. She's making some good friends here and wants more time to get to know them better. However, she's looking forward to being with her old friends at home. Both girls' worlds revolves around their friends. How lovely and innocent. Aah, to be a child.
The more I visit with fellow ex-pats, the more I realize how very different our experience is from theirs. Many have been assigned and re-assigned jobs globally, and do not have a "home" per se. Where they currently hang their hat, is their home. They bring everything with them and set up their lives, integrating as completely and as wholeheartedly as they can. We, on the other hand, just took a bite out of the real thing. We've always known we'd return and to exactly our Portland existence as we left it. With that, it's been hard to "detach" from Portland and "attach" here. I can understand now, why the first year is the detaching process. It takes about that long to feel connected and get truly involved in activities, friendships, etc.
But, on the other hand, one year will give us the experience of a lifetime. Not only in traveling and seeing other parts of the world and how people live, but the detachment I speak of is also a time to re-evaulate and assess one's life as it was. This self-induced exile from home has been a time of reflection, bonding and growth. We've all become very practiced in the art of patience. At the risk of sounding very Dorothy-like, "There's no place like home". Granted, distance makes the heart grow fonder. But we are very fortunate to have a place we can call home: A place that is familiar, cozy, inviting and safe. A place where roots are deep. We will return home to open arms of loving friends and family.
The sun is up and the skies look friendly today. We've had still freezing temperatures this week, a little snow, sleet, rain mixed with 2 beautifully sunny but chilly days. The only color is from blooming crocus in every lawn. We won't get new growth on trees and flowers for another month. We change our clocks tonight, giving us daylight until almost 8:30 pm.
Enjoy the new birth of spring,
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to www.cohensindk.blogspot.com
The last two weeks have flown by for me. One museum outing with lady friends, CIS Dinner Dance, 2 luncheons with CIS friends, 2 days spent with my sister Teresa who was in town again (including a fun day in Sweden) and on top of that lots of walking, biking, tennis and my usual yoga/strength routine. It's now Saturday morning and I'm looking forward to a weekend of chores, food shopping, laundry and such. Craig and I are seeing a play by an English Production Company tonight and dinner out.
Craig's had a long week with LaCrosse people in town. The office was a hub of activity until late hours. He's begun to mingle his new U.S. job responsibilities with his current Danish ones. The Controller he hired the first of January is doing a bang-up job and will assume some of the managerial responsibilities while the Portland Marketing Dept. will take others. Craig will travel to the U.S. at least twice and to China once before we move home in June.
We're trying to cram little excursions in here and there amidst Maya's big 5th grade "exhibition" project, end-of-year school parties and packing up. We hope to get to Stockholm, The fjords of Norway, Legoland (on the big island of Denmark) and Croatia after school is over. Sounds crazy but we just have to do it.
Molly continues to create a busy social life. She has a sleepover with a different friend every weekend and at least 2 playdates after school each week. She aces what little homework she gets and has become a stronger reader. Maya likes to come home after school and hang out, do computer games, homework and read. She has one or two playdates a week as well. She confided in me last night that she's torn about moving back to Portland. She's making some good friends here and wants more time to get to know them better. However, she's looking forward to being with her old friends at home. Both girls' worlds revolves around their friends. How lovely and innocent. Aah, to be a child.
The more I visit with fellow ex-pats, the more I realize how very different our experience is from theirs. Many have been assigned and re-assigned jobs globally, and do not have a "home" per se. Where they currently hang their hat, is their home. They bring everything with them and set up their lives, integrating as completely and as wholeheartedly as they can. We, on the other hand, just took a bite out of the real thing. We've always known we'd return and to exactly our Portland existence as we left it. With that, it's been hard to "detach" from Portland and "attach" here. I can understand now, why the first year is the detaching process. It takes about that long to feel connected and get truly involved in activities, friendships, etc.
But, on the other hand, one year will give us the experience of a lifetime. Not only in traveling and seeing other parts of the world and how people live, but the detachment I speak of is also a time to re-evaulate and assess one's life as it was. This self-induced exile from home has been a time of reflection, bonding and growth. We've all become very practiced in the art of patience. At the risk of sounding very Dorothy-like, "There's no place like home". Granted, distance makes the heart grow fonder. But we are very fortunate to have a place we can call home: A place that is familiar, cozy, inviting and safe. A place where roots are deep. We will return home to open arms of loving friends and family.
The sun is up and the skies look friendly today. We've had still freezing temperatures this week, a little snow, sleet, rain mixed with 2 beautifully sunny but chilly days. The only color is from blooming crocus in every lawn. We won't get new growth on trees and flowers for another month. We change our clocks tonight, giving us daylight until almost 8:30 pm.
Enjoy the new birth of spring,
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to www.cohensindk.blogspot.com
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
What a difference a Week Makes
I am feeling much better now. I needed some really hard down time. Perhaps my body and mind felt it was the last "rest" of the winter, as I now launch into spring activities and the procedures to get us home. Although I wasn't really depressed, I felt unmotivated and uninterested and tired. That is so NOT like me. I think that's what bothered me more - the fact that I wasn't my usual self.
I'm waking to a clear blue sky at sunrise, 6 am. The days are rapidly lengthening and with it the hint of warmer weather and cheerier times. I got back on the saddle after a couple of weeks. Monday I rode downtown for an appointment and to the fantastic public library (almost as big as Powells). Tuesday I rode to Christianhavn, Christiana, Fisketorvet Mall and Islands Brygge, where Craig's office is. I explored new roads, got lost, sat in a bakery and ate real "danish" with coffee, of course. The wind was really howling. I rode over 45 km (about 25 miles) in all and the wind made it twice as hard. There were times the wind blew me sideways or stopped me completely. I love riding because it really connects me to the city and makes me feel alive. I see things close-up and get a taste for everything, much more than in a car.
The girls and I had a painting day on Sunday. We got out easels, canvasses and acrylics and let our imaginations go. We all produced some nice pieces. Maya went on a 5-girl sleepover at a Danish friend's house on Friday, after the Primary School disco. She got little sleep but had a fantastic time and never once called home. She is connecting more with her schoolwork, and participating more in the classroom. Molly also went on a sleepover after the disco, then went to a birthday party the same weekend. Birthday parties really keep their social lives active.
I have arranged a group of ladies to go to the Arken Museum this Friday to see an impressionists exhibit. Next week I'm going out to 2 different lunches and an evening affair. My book club is currently reading "Number The Stars" by Lois Lowry. A youth book that is about 2 ten year old girlfriends living in Copenhagen during the Nazi occupation. One girl is Jewish.
This Saturday is the big CIS dinner dance. We are going, much to Craig's disappointment. You know how much he likes to dance. But we are sitting at a table with other couples he knows and has some common interests. I hesitated but decided not to buy a new gown for the occasion. I brought a dress that I only wore once and will do just fine. We are having friends over before for drinks and appetizers. I think the last time we got this dressed up was summer of 2007.
I've decided I have to keep investing in a social life up until the moment I leave, rather than pull back. In reality, all the ex-pats we know are in the same boat - everyone is transient and often could leave with a few months notice as well. The economy is slowly affecting it's way over here and downsizing will occur in Denmark as well.
We are gearing up for our trip to Portland April 3rd. Just 15 days away. We are lining up appointments, gatherings, shopping sprees and errands. Should be an action-packed week.
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to www.thecohen4dk@gmail.com
I'm waking to a clear blue sky at sunrise, 6 am. The days are rapidly lengthening and with it the hint of warmer weather and cheerier times. I got back on the saddle after a couple of weeks. Monday I rode downtown for an appointment and to the fantastic public library (almost as big as Powells). Tuesday I rode to Christianhavn, Christiana, Fisketorvet Mall and Islands Brygge, where Craig's office is. I explored new roads, got lost, sat in a bakery and ate real "danish" with coffee, of course. The wind was really howling. I rode over 45 km (about 25 miles) in all and the wind made it twice as hard. There were times the wind blew me sideways or stopped me completely. I love riding because it really connects me to the city and makes me feel alive. I see things close-up and get a taste for everything, much more than in a car.
The girls and I had a painting day on Sunday. We got out easels, canvasses and acrylics and let our imaginations go. We all produced some nice pieces. Maya went on a 5-girl sleepover at a Danish friend's house on Friday, after the Primary School disco. She got little sleep but had a fantastic time and never once called home. She is connecting more with her schoolwork, and participating more in the classroom. Molly also went on a sleepover after the disco, then went to a birthday party the same weekend. Birthday parties really keep their social lives active.
I have arranged a group of ladies to go to the Arken Museum this Friday to see an impressionists exhibit. Next week I'm going out to 2 different lunches and an evening affair. My book club is currently reading "Number The Stars" by Lois Lowry. A youth book that is about 2 ten year old girlfriends living in Copenhagen during the Nazi occupation. One girl is Jewish.
This Saturday is the big CIS dinner dance. We are going, much to Craig's disappointment. You know how much he likes to dance. But we are sitting at a table with other couples he knows and has some common interests. I hesitated but decided not to buy a new gown for the occasion. I brought a dress that I only wore once and will do just fine. We are having friends over before for drinks and appetizers. I think the last time we got this dressed up was summer of 2007.
I've decided I have to keep investing in a social life up until the moment I leave, rather than pull back. In reality, all the ex-pats we know are in the same boat - everyone is transient and often could leave with a few months notice as well. The economy is slowly affecting it's way over here and downsizing will occur in Denmark as well.
We are gearing up for our trip to Portland April 3rd. Just 15 days away. We are lining up appointments, gatherings, shopping sprees and errands. Should be an action-packed week.
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to www.thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Snowing on March 12th
I had such high hopes for spring. Not today. We woke to frost that we had to scrape off the windows to drive Craig to the train station, for a trip to Germany. then, around noon it started snowing. Termperatures are right around freezing and I'm sure it won't accumulate. However, this is more of a hit to our spirits, rather than anything else. The winter has seemed so long. Our first snow was the 2nd week of November and since then we've had one day over 7 degrees celcius. I don't know what that is in Fahrenheit. I stopped figuring that out a long time ago.
I'm feeling very blue. Having a second cold in 4 weeks has brought me down. Along with the weather I'm just not as motivated as I was before. I connect with a few mom-friends at school, but not in the way that others do. How much effort do I put in to getting to know people that I'm just going to leave? I suffer from my own desire to be alone. I don't mind it, but then it doesn't get me invitations. I'm not writing this to get sympathy, it's just reality. The life of an ex-pat wife is not all roses.
We live a parallel life to everyone else all over the world. We get up have breakfast, get to work and school, shop for food, cook, do homework, chores and have dinner just like people do in Portland, New York, Rome and Brazil. What makes one feel at home is a connection to their community. If we knew we were to live here permanantly, or that we weren't going back to USA but rather on to another assignment in another county, things might be different. We migh jump in whole-heartedly. But we know differently. We know we are going back. "Short-timers" disease makes living in the present very difficult.
However, no matter how long we might have lived here, chances are we would never have integrated into the Danish social life. We live parallel to them, not with them. Very few ex-pats actually socialize with Danes. One American mother has been here 5 years and still doesn't have Danish friends. Like her, we make friends and socialize with other ex-pats. Outside of school and work, we know very few people. Granted, we don't go out of our way to do so either. It's uncomfortable for us and them. So, we spend a lot of time as a family at home or out together.
In the beginning, I spent a lot of energy wanting to be like the Danes, so as not to stand out; "blend in". But now I've come to realize that I don't really want to be like the Danes at all. I try now to just be who I am and enjoy how I dress and what I do and add only the things that I really like about the lifestyle here to my ouvre.
Many Danish families at CIS are lovely, especially those that have travelled and moved beyond the traditionalist mentality.
Add the isolation, gray skies, cold weather, lack of work or busy-ness, monotonous countryside and life here can be a little boring. we learn to fill it with as much external entertainment and activity that this non-social family can muster.
No pictures will accompany this blog. I'm finding it harder to write about life here. It's just so much of the ordinary. I've stopped looking at where I live as being someplace special, and just a place to live. The bloom is off the rose.
Thank God for my yoga practice and self motivation to keep it going.
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to: thecohen4dk@gmail.com
I'm feeling very blue. Having a second cold in 4 weeks has brought me down. Along with the weather I'm just not as motivated as I was before. I connect with a few mom-friends at school, but not in the way that others do. How much effort do I put in to getting to know people that I'm just going to leave? I suffer from my own desire to be alone. I don't mind it, but then it doesn't get me invitations. I'm not writing this to get sympathy, it's just reality. The life of an ex-pat wife is not all roses.
We live a parallel life to everyone else all over the world. We get up have breakfast, get to work and school, shop for food, cook, do homework, chores and have dinner just like people do in Portland, New York, Rome and Brazil. What makes one feel at home is a connection to their community. If we knew we were to live here permanantly, or that we weren't going back to USA but rather on to another assignment in another county, things might be different. We migh jump in whole-heartedly. But we know differently. We know we are going back. "Short-timers" disease makes living in the present very difficult.
However, no matter how long we might have lived here, chances are we would never have integrated into the Danish social life. We live parallel to them, not with them. Very few ex-pats actually socialize with Danes. One American mother has been here 5 years and still doesn't have Danish friends. Like her, we make friends and socialize with other ex-pats. Outside of school and work, we know very few people. Granted, we don't go out of our way to do so either. It's uncomfortable for us and them. So, we spend a lot of time as a family at home or out together.
In the beginning, I spent a lot of energy wanting to be like the Danes, so as not to stand out; "blend in". But now I've come to realize that I don't really want to be like the Danes at all. I try now to just be who I am and enjoy how I dress and what I do and add only the things that I really like about the lifestyle here to my ouvre.
Many Danish families at CIS are lovely, especially those that have travelled and moved beyond the traditionalist mentality.
Add the isolation, gray skies, cold weather, lack of work or busy-ness, monotonous countryside and life here can be a little boring. we learn to fill it with as much external entertainment and activity that this non-social family can muster.
No pictures will accompany this blog. I'm finding it harder to write about life here. It's just so much of the ordinary. I've stopped looking at where I live as being someplace special, and just a place to live. The bloom is off the rose.
Thank God for my yoga practice and self motivation to keep it going.
Love and Light,
Mary Jo
comments to: thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Sunday, March 8, 2009
Holland Excursion/Maya's Basketball Tournament
We're just coming off our 4-day Dutch excursion. Maya's basketball team had a tournament in The Hague so Molly, Craig and I decided to tag along and sightsee, and support the team. The 4 C.I.S. teams (U12 boys/girls, U14 boys/girls) rode a sweet, double decker touring bus for 11 hours on Thursday, arriving dinner time. The 3 of us flew a little over an hour, arriving dinner time. We stayed in a hotel inbetween the Hague and Amsterdam so we could split our time between games and the city. This is an international school league, 10 schools from Holland, Belguim, Germany and Denmark.
The schools rotate hosting the tournament, for each major sport (volleyball, bball, track and field, soccer) so the kids get around. Most spectators were parents of the closer schools, and only a handful of parents from Denmark made the effort. Since we were "jonzing" for a kids' game to watch we went all the way. (That's been missing in our lives this year - no team sports, no games on the weekends, no social interaction with parents on the sidelines). Basketball is not a european sport and many parents are learning right along with the kids.
Maya's school is one of the smallest of all the international schools therefore the sports programs are smaller and draw from fewer kids. There are no leagues for grades 1 - 4. Their team was up against some stiff competition. Amazing how aggressively these girls played, muscling for every ball and constant turn-overs. Scores never got over 20 points. They ended up 7th out of 8 teams, winning 2 out of 5 games. They played better than the C.I.S. U12 boys, which was an emotional boost. Other than playing, they stayed in a hotel, ate out, watched games, went to an all-school dinner/dance and lastly shopped for souveniers and candy before their overnight bus trip home.
Maya plays guard, and her squad trades off every other quarter. Maya scored 8 points total, scoring in 3 different games. Her skills have developed from last year and she's become more aggressive, offensively and defensively.
The American School of the Hague hosted the tournament. Unlike CIS, The Hague was built specifically as the international school and has a campus similar to most American High Schools and includes Pre-k to High school with state of the art facilities. The snack bar alone was brilliant with all fresh, healthy foods and no sodas or junk food at all.
In our free time Friday and Saturday Molly, Craig and I drove into Amsterdam to mess around. The first day we walked, ate and shopped. The second day we saw the Ann Frank House, ate, strolled and shopped. Both days we were back to the hotel by 8 pm. Sights and activities are much different in Amsterdam with children, vs. as a single adult. However we were able to drink some beers in pubs with Molly. Sadly for me, I didn't get to see museums or buy more stuff, tempting as the lower Euro rate was against the Danish kroner.
The last day we checked out Schevingeren, a popular beach outside of the Hague and headed for the airport. Maya's teams loaded the bus and left Sunday night at 7 pm, drove through the night and arrived at C.I.S. for pick-up at 6 am. The kids have Monday off for a teacher in-service day, so she is writing a research paper on biomes,nursing a headache, a cold and very tired. All in all, it was great experience for her and she is thrilled that she made it and very proud of herself. We are too.
comments to: thecohen4dk@gmail.com
The schools rotate hosting the tournament, for each major sport (volleyball, bball, track and field, soccer) so the kids get around. Most spectators were parents of the closer schools, and only a handful of parents from Denmark made the effort. Since we were "jonzing" for a kids' game to watch we went all the way. (That's been missing in our lives this year - no team sports, no games on the weekends, no social interaction with parents on the sidelines). Basketball is not a european sport and many parents are learning right along with the kids.
Maya's school is one of the smallest of all the international schools therefore the sports programs are smaller and draw from fewer kids. There are no leagues for grades 1 - 4. Their team was up against some stiff competition. Amazing how aggressively these girls played, muscling for every ball and constant turn-overs. Scores never got over 20 points. They ended up 7th out of 8 teams, winning 2 out of 5 games. They played better than the C.I.S. U12 boys, which was an emotional boost. Other than playing, they stayed in a hotel, ate out, watched games, went to an all-school dinner/dance and lastly shopped for souveniers and candy before their overnight bus trip home.
Maya plays guard, and her squad trades off every other quarter. Maya scored 8 points total, scoring in 3 different games. Her skills have developed from last year and she's become more aggressive, offensively and defensively.
The American School of the Hague hosted the tournament. Unlike CIS, The Hague was built specifically as the international school and has a campus similar to most American High Schools and includes Pre-k to High school with state of the art facilities. The snack bar alone was brilliant with all fresh, healthy foods and no sodas or junk food at all.
In our free time Friday and Saturday Molly, Craig and I drove into Amsterdam to mess around. The first day we walked, ate and shopped. The second day we saw the Ann Frank House, ate, strolled and shopped. Both days we were back to the hotel by 8 pm. Sights and activities are much different in Amsterdam with children, vs. as a single adult. However we were able to drink some beers in pubs with Molly. Sadly for me, I didn't get to see museums or buy more stuff, tempting as the lower Euro rate was against the Danish kroner.
The last day we checked out Schevingeren, a popular beach outside of the Hague and headed for the airport. Maya's teams loaded the bus and left Sunday night at 7 pm, drove through the night and arrived at C.I.S. for pick-up at 6 am. The kids have Monday off for a teacher in-service day, so she is writing a research paper on biomes,nursing a headache, a cold and very tired. All in all, it was great experience for her and she is thrilled that she made it and very proud of herself. We are too.
comments to: thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Cultures Day at CIS
Copenhagen International School put on an all-day event last Monday to celebrate all the varied cultures that make up our school family. Classes visited the performing arts center where displays from almost 40 countries were set up and operated by parents. There were presentations from Latvia, Japan, Israel, Guatemala, Russia, India, Australia, Pakistan, to name a few, as well as the standard european, scandinavia and UK countries. They also had an assembly with entertainment from an African drummer, latino folk group, tango dancers, a tai chi class and Indian dancers.
Parents brought in ethnic dishes for lunch in each classroom. I baked apple pies for 3rd and 5th grade. Maya's class learned some international dances and Molly learned how to spell her name in Hebrew. The whole day was devoted to this learning experience and a great many parents were involved as well. I had helped to create the USA table during the weeks prior and my main job was collecting over 100 images of America that was looped on a digital display. However, the day of the event I ended up manning the Spanish table for a wayward parent. I showed kids how to play the castenuelas and taught everybody how to say "por favor" and "gracias". (My Spanish degree really came in handy for that one!) Working parents got to eat the overwhelming amount of leftovers from the classrooms, sampling from dozens of different foods. By the end of the day, we were all exhausted. I was so proud to partake of such an event, that really can only happen at an international school like this one.
This is a big week for Maya. She has 2 basketball practices and 1 game after school plus working on a "war diary" project for school. She is researching and writing 6 different journal entries from a black slaves perspective between 1619 and 1875, at significant times - like the Underground Railroad, Emancipation and the invention of the cotton gin. It's good stuff, but a lot of work in a short amount of time. Next week she has practice games on Monday and Tuesday after school, in preparation for the teams' trip to Holland for a tournament. They leave at 6:30 am on Thursday morning. Molly, Craig and I will fly to Amsterdam Thursday evening and stay in a hotel close to the sports hall but 30 minutes from the city for sightseeing when her games aren't going on. Should be fun.
We're doing our best to get out and see museums and Danish culture on the weekends. 2 weekends ago Craig took the girls to the Viking Museum to learn about the history of Vikings, sit in actual ships and try on Viking garb. Last weekend we returned to the Louisiana Museum to check out the Max Ernst Exhibit. He's a German dada artist who's famous for his surreal paintings and sculptures. Every museum here has such great kids areas. At the Louisiana they could sculpt, do rubbings, design with legos, paint and play out of doors. Just about every museum here is free for children under 16. The Danes love art appreciation and take it seriously.
My book club is now reading a collection of stories by Karen Blixen. She wrote Out of Africa and is one of Denmark's most celebrated authors. Of course, there is a museum dedicated to her as well. It's not too far from here and I plan on going after I finish the book.
On the weather front, the days are getting much lighter, earlier. It' fully light by 7 am. The last of the snow is melting and crocuses are popping up in our backyard. The temperatures this week are around 5 - 7 degrees C. (about 40 F or so) which is much warmer. We are back to gray skies, some rain and typical Denmark weather. It's a relief to know that the worst is over and it' will continue to slowly get warmer and lighter each day. The girls and I are back to riding bikes to school when they don't have after school activities, much to Maya's disappointment. We have just barely 5 weeks until our visit to Portland in April and exactly 4 months left until we move for good.
Farvel
comments to: thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Parents brought in ethnic dishes for lunch in each classroom. I baked apple pies for 3rd and 5th grade. Maya's class learned some international dances and Molly learned how to spell her name in Hebrew. The whole day was devoted to this learning experience and a great many parents were involved as well. I had helped to create the USA table during the weeks prior and my main job was collecting over 100 images of America that was looped on a digital display. However, the day of the event I ended up manning the Spanish table for a wayward parent. I showed kids how to play the castenuelas and taught everybody how to say "por favor" and "gracias". (My Spanish degree really came in handy for that one!) Working parents got to eat the overwhelming amount of leftovers from the classrooms, sampling from dozens of different foods. By the end of the day, we were all exhausted. I was so proud to partake of such an event, that really can only happen at an international school like this one.
This is a big week for Maya. She has 2 basketball practices and 1 game after school plus working on a "war diary" project for school. She is researching and writing 6 different journal entries from a black slaves perspective between 1619 and 1875, at significant times - like the Underground Railroad, Emancipation and the invention of the cotton gin. It's good stuff, but a lot of work in a short amount of time. Next week she has practice games on Monday and Tuesday after school, in preparation for the teams' trip to Holland for a tournament. They leave at 6:30 am on Thursday morning. Molly, Craig and I will fly to Amsterdam Thursday evening and stay in a hotel close to the sports hall but 30 minutes from the city for sightseeing when her games aren't going on. Should be fun.
We're doing our best to get out and see museums and Danish culture on the weekends. 2 weekends ago Craig took the girls to the Viking Museum to learn about the history of Vikings, sit in actual ships and try on Viking garb. Last weekend we returned to the Louisiana Museum to check out the Max Ernst Exhibit. He's a German dada artist who's famous for his surreal paintings and sculptures. Every museum here has such great kids areas. At the Louisiana they could sculpt, do rubbings, design with legos, paint and play out of doors. Just about every museum here is free for children under 16. The Danes love art appreciation and take it seriously.
My book club is now reading a collection of stories by Karen Blixen. She wrote Out of Africa and is one of Denmark's most celebrated authors. Of course, there is a museum dedicated to her as well. It's not too far from here and I plan on going after I finish the book.
On the weather front, the days are getting much lighter, earlier. It' fully light by 7 am. The last of the snow is melting and crocuses are popping up in our backyard. The temperatures this week are around 5 - 7 degrees C. (about 40 F or so) which is much warmer. We are back to gray skies, some rain and typical Denmark weather. It's a relief to know that the worst is over and it' will continue to slowly get warmer and lighter each day. The girls and I are back to riding bikes to school when they don't have after school activities, much to Maya's disappointment. We have just barely 5 weeks until our visit to Portland in April and exactly 4 months left until we move for good.
Farvel
comments to: thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Rare Snow Storm Comes to Denmark
It started snowing on February 10th and has been snowing off and on now through today (Feburary 19th) and they expect at least a few more days. It's fine snow and hasn't really accumulated more than a few inches. but that hasn't stopped Copenhagen from it's regular routine. Bicyclists still continue, traffic is bad, schools stay open and dogs still poop on the sidewalks.
We came back from Germany last Friday night and I have ben sick with a nasty sore throat and chest cold eveyr since. it's the kind of cold where the cough will linger for a long time. Oh well, at least I have the luxury of resting and not working, major responsibilities or commitments.
I did manage to get out for a walk with another American mom from Maine who moved here when I did. I brought along my camera for fun. I couldn't resist the pic of the lady in the fur coat, walking her dog. These last few weeks have given all the Danish women a chance to bring out the fur - and they wear it for every reason. But what's amazing in this photo is the fact that she scooped her poop! (notice the bag in her hand).
We expect a few more days of snow and cold and then probably back to our normal gray and gray.
Craig is in Oslo, Norway for the day and night. A business made a huge order of LaCrosee boots and he's there to greet go over details. Tomorrow is the Danish holiday of Fastlavn. The children will dress in costumes and bash barrels. I'll find out more at the school assembly. Monday is Cultures Day at school and I'll be working the American Table (go figure!) and baking apple pies for the girls' classrooms. More details to come.
Met with the moving company today. Move out will be simple. They will pack most everything for us, except clothes and books and personals. They will pack us the day before school ends (June 23rd) and load the container on the 24th. We will sleep in our house on the 23rd, but in a hotel on the 24th. No air mattresses this time. Pack the container and we're out the door.
Love and Light,
comments to: thecohen4dk@gmail.com
We came back from Germany last Friday night and I have ben sick with a nasty sore throat and chest cold eveyr since. it's the kind of cold where the cough will linger for a long time. Oh well, at least I have the luxury of resting and not working, major responsibilities or commitments.
I did manage to get out for a walk with another American mom from Maine who moved here when I did. I brought along my camera for fun. I couldn't resist the pic of the lady in the fur coat, walking her dog. These last few weeks have given all the Danish women a chance to bring out the fur - and they wear it for every reason. But what's amazing in this photo is the fact that she scooped her poop! (notice the bag in her hand).
We expect a few more days of snow and cold and then probably back to our normal gray and gray.
Craig is in Oslo, Norway for the day and night. A business made a huge order of LaCrosee boots and he's there to greet go over details. Tomorrow is the Danish holiday of Fastlavn. The children will dress in costumes and bash barrels. I'll find out more at the school assembly. Monday is Cultures Day at school and I'll be working the American Table (go figure!) and baking apple pies for the girls' classrooms. More details to come.
Met with the moving company today. Move out will be simple. They will pack most everything for us, except clothes and books and personals. They will pack us the day before school ends (June 23rd) and load the container on the 24th. We will sleep in our house on the 23rd, but in a hotel on the 24th. No air mattresses this time. Pack the container and we're out the door.
Love and Light,
comments to: thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Moving Back to Portland Summer '09
Wouldn't life be boring if everything always went to plan?
So that's how we're looking at our recent change to our assignment here in Denmark. Turns out, we're not insulated from the economic woes of the U.S. simply by living in Denmark. Things are bad everywhere. We will begin planning our July 1st departure - about 5 months from now. This is 6-12 months less than what we expected to spend over here.
Craig and I knew about all this 3 weeks ago but have had to stay quiet until all parties involved heard it from LaCrosse directly. It was news worth announcing but had to wait. It was difficult not to call and email immediatlely, but then on the other hand it gave us time to think things through, lets the girls ponder it for a while, assess our own reactions and concerns.
We can't help but be grateful and appreciative of the time here. The exposure to another country and culture plus the ability to travel to foreign countries and gain new perspectives on others and ourselves. We've met so many other families and learned about their lives and experiences. We challenged ourselves by uprooting our known existence in Portland and moving it halfway around the world. And now, we're going to go through it all again, on the reverse. Not only will we overcome the physical challenges but mental and emotional ones as well: fears, anxieties, missing friends, stress of all kinds. We've gained a sense of independence and strength of character that will carry through our family bond forever and hopefully be instilled in our children's futures. This was a chance of a lifetime and even though short, it was well worth the hard work, sweat and tears.
So, why are we comning back? Simply put, it's very expensive for LaCrosse to keep this ex-pat family here. Between school, rent, and all the extra expenditures it's been a big debit in the new European company's records. By June, Craig will have all the major components in place that are needed for the company to function without him. He will train his new Danish controller as interim director until another Danish director can be hired. Matt Schneider, the other ex-pat from LaCrosse will stay on for another year and head up all sales and marketing.
As soon as school is over, we're loading a container and moving out. Our plan is to take one last trip to Croatia with my sister, Susan and her family who have pre-planned a visit, before all this happened. We should be back in the first week of July. Details have yet to be defined and where we'll live when we move back is yet to be determined. Our renters have leased our house until mid August and if they want us to honor that, we'll just stay in executive housing until the end of the summer. Besides, our belongings will take most of July and August to travel to Portland.
Maya and Molly are just fine with moving home. They took it much better than when we announced our move to Copenhagen! But, of course. They are moving to the familiar and know exactly what to look forward to. Maya will be able to start Middle School with her friends and Molly would be back at Rieke with her buddies. Summers in Copenhagen are long and can be quite boring if you don't travel. Most ex-pat families leave for the entire summer. We would have had only 3 or 4 weeks out of 8 with definite plans. The other 4 would have been brutal. It's a strange society here, among the ex-pat community. News of families' arrivals and departures is a constant buzz. Where do people come from? Where are they going? And more ex-pats are leaving this year than normal, for the same reasons we are.
We had dinner with Geeta and Adam Fry last weekend (at a restaurant that blends French, Italian, Danish and Turkish Food and we could bring our own bottles of wine).
Geeta started crying when we told her we were leaving. She said, "That's just not fair! You just start to get to really know some one and then they leave." It's the same for our kids too. They are just starting to have favorite friends and more confidence about playdates (well, Molly always was...) It's wrenching to watch them see classmates come and go. The trade-off of being a transient society is the exchange of fabulous stories and interactions. We have a lot to do in the next 5 months!
How do I feel about it all? On one hand I had a lot of plans to see so much more. I was beginning to settle in to ex-pat mom life: weekly tennis, museum-going, volunteer duty on committees at school, joining a gym, etc. But on the other hand I've felt like I'm just biding my time until we go home. There's only so much purpose for me here. Granted, I bind the family together. I make things happen keep the household together. Craig's job has been the lead in our lives and the rest of us are along for the ride. While he gets the stress, we get the spoils. However, he gets the purpose while I get the abyss. There's not enough time to get involved nor is working here a possibility. I look forward to returning to teach yoga again and reassign myself into my community.
Even though I've gotten out for biking and enjoyed the out-of-doors here in Denmark, let's face it: this country is flat and boring. I can't wait to get back to interesting hiking trails, skiing just an hour away, views of hills out my living room window, desert and rock climbing, mountain biking. Oregon is such a great recreational state. I miss that a lot. And the change of seasons. Here it's just cold, colder, cold and warm. And let's be honest: Danes are not the friendliest people to live among. I haven't tried to be buds with anyone, but I never felt the urge to. I guess to sum it up, I've enjoyed living here but I've never fallen in love with Copenhagen. I will not have a hard time moving away.
On a separate note, the girls just had a week off from school and since Craig had to work, we went to northern Germany to a family sports resort. We went with another mom and fifth grade friend of Maya's. I drove, and the journey took 8 hours going (bad traffic)and 7 coming back. This place was located on the NW coast and houses about 2000 people in all sorts of arrangements, mostly small, cheap cottages with bare bones amenities. They offer an indoor water park, tennis, badminton, bowling, arcade, pool, air hockey, ping pong and assorted restaurants. In the summer there's much much more to do, but since it snowed 3 out of the 4 days we were there, we stuck to the indoor sports.
We got a taste of German resort accomodations (everybody either checks in on Mondays OR Fridays and that's it). German food (what's not deep fried is swimming in sauces and pretty poor salads). German nudity in the locker rooms and saunas (much to poor Molly's chagrine). German water - you can't buy regular flat water if you tried- everything is carbonated. German friendliness- they are nice and very welcoming. German bodies - much plumper and less toned than Danish bodies. Hmmm could be that jovial lifestyle of eating and drinking...
We had a great break away from our house and school and shared good times with Deb and Maddy. Now we're back, I have a weird cold I'm trying to stave off and girls have friends over. It's Valentines Day on an uncharacteristically sunny day, with frozen snow on the ground.
Will write more again.
Love, Peace and Joy
comments to: thecohen4dk@gmail.com
So that's how we're looking at our recent change to our assignment here in Denmark. Turns out, we're not insulated from the economic woes of the U.S. simply by living in Denmark. Things are bad everywhere. We will begin planning our July 1st departure - about 5 months from now. This is 6-12 months less than what we expected to spend over here.
Craig and I knew about all this 3 weeks ago but have had to stay quiet until all parties involved heard it from LaCrosse directly. It was news worth announcing but had to wait. It was difficult not to call and email immediatlely, but then on the other hand it gave us time to think things through, lets the girls ponder it for a while, assess our own reactions and concerns.
We can't help but be grateful and appreciative of the time here. The exposure to another country and culture plus the ability to travel to foreign countries and gain new perspectives on others and ourselves. We've met so many other families and learned about their lives and experiences. We challenged ourselves by uprooting our known existence in Portland and moving it halfway around the world. And now, we're going to go through it all again, on the reverse. Not only will we overcome the physical challenges but mental and emotional ones as well: fears, anxieties, missing friends, stress of all kinds. We've gained a sense of independence and strength of character that will carry through our family bond forever and hopefully be instilled in our children's futures. This was a chance of a lifetime and even though short, it was well worth the hard work, sweat and tears.
So, why are we comning back? Simply put, it's very expensive for LaCrosse to keep this ex-pat family here. Between school, rent, and all the extra expenditures it's been a big debit in the new European company's records. By June, Craig will have all the major components in place that are needed for the company to function without him. He will train his new Danish controller as interim director until another Danish director can be hired. Matt Schneider, the other ex-pat from LaCrosse will stay on for another year and head up all sales and marketing.
As soon as school is over, we're loading a container and moving out. Our plan is to take one last trip to Croatia with my sister, Susan and her family who have pre-planned a visit, before all this happened. We should be back in the first week of July. Details have yet to be defined and where we'll live when we move back is yet to be determined. Our renters have leased our house until mid August and if they want us to honor that, we'll just stay in executive housing until the end of the summer. Besides, our belongings will take most of July and August to travel to Portland.
Maya and Molly are just fine with moving home. They took it much better than when we announced our move to Copenhagen! But, of course. They are moving to the familiar and know exactly what to look forward to. Maya will be able to start Middle School with her friends and Molly would be back at Rieke with her buddies. Summers in Copenhagen are long and can be quite boring if you don't travel. Most ex-pat families leave for the entire summer. We would have had only 3 or 4 weeks out of 8 with definite plans. The other 4 would have been brutal. It's a strange society here, among the ex-pat community. News of families' arrivals and departures is a constant buzz. Where do people come from? Where are they going? And more ex-pats are leaving this year than normal, for the same reasons we are.
We had dinner with Geeta and Adam Fry last weekend (at a restaurant that blends French, Italian, Danish and Turkish Food and we could bring our own bottles of wine).
Geeta started crying when we told her we were leaving. She said, "That's just not fair! You just start to get to really know some one and then they leave." It's the same for our kids too. They are just starting to have favorite friends and more confidence about playdates (well, Molly always was...) It's wrenching to watch them see classmates come and go. The trade-off of being a transient society is the exchange of fabulous stories and interactions. We have a lot to do in the next 5 months!
How do I feel about it all? On one hand I had a lot of plans to see so much more. I was beginning to settle in to ex-pat mom life: weekly tennis, museum-going, volunteer duty on committees at school, joining a gym, etc. But on the other hand I've felt like I'm just biding my time until we go home. There's only so much purpose for me here. Granted, I bind the family together. I make things happen keep the household together. Craig's job has been the lead in our lives and the rest of us are along for the ride. While he gets the stress, we get the spoils. However, he gets the purpose while I get the abyss. There's not enough time to get involved nor is working here a possibility. I look forward to returning to teach yoga again and reassign myself into my community.
Even though I've gotten out for biking and enjoyed the out-of-doors here in Denmark, let's face it: this country is flat and boring. I can't wait to get back to interesting hiking trails, skiing just an hour away, views of hills out my living room window, desert and rock climbing, mountain biking. Oregon is such a great recreational state. I miss that a lot. And the change of seasons. Here it's just cold, colder, cold and warm. And let's be honest: Danes are not the friendliest people to live among. I haven't tried to be buds with anyone, but I never felt the urge to. I guess to sum it up, I've enjoyed living here but I've never fallen in love with Copenhagen. I will not have a hard time moving away.
On a separate note, the girls just had a week off from school and since Craig had to work, we went to northern Germany to a family sports resort. We went with another mom and fifth grade friend of Maya's. I drove, and the journey took 8 hours going (bad traffic)and 7 coming back. This place was located on the NW coast and houses about 2000 people in all sorts of arrangements, mostly small, cheap cottages with bare bones amenities. They offer an indoor water park, tennis, badminton, bowling, arcade, pool, air hockey, ping pong and assorted restaurants. In the summer there's much much more to do, but since it snowed 3 out of the 4 days we were there, we stuck to the indoor sports.
We got a taste of German resort accomodations (everybody either checks in on Mondays OR Fridays and that's it). German food (what's not deep fried is swimming in sauces and pretty poor salads). German nudity in the locker rooms and saunas (much to poor Molly's chagrine). German water - you can't buy regular flat water if you tried- everything is carbonated. German friendliness- they are nice and very welcoming. German bodies - much plumper and less toned than Danish bodies. Hmmm could be that jovial lifestyle of eating and drinking...
We had a great break away from our house and school and shared good times with Deb and Maddy. Now we're back, I have a weird cold I'm trying to stave off and girls have friends over. It's Valentines Day on an uncharacteristically sunny day, with frozen snow on the ground.
Will write more again.
Love, Peace and Joy
comments to: thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
The Dog Days of Winter
I hesitate to write, since I have no big headline, trip or tale to speak of. We're getting through the gray, cold days here, one at a time. Craig has barely had a day off since our return from Switzerland on January 3rd. The girls and I process school days, home life and weekend activities. When the weather is cold there is a limit to just how much time we spend outside. Picking up the kids from school is now by car, whenever we can use it. Dressing in coats, hats, gloves and boots is getting old. Unfortunately, it will not warm up until March or later, so we've heard.
The cold isn't as bad as the constant gray skies. Every once and a while we get a little glimpse of the sun, but maybe once every 2 weeks. That's a mental drain. There's just no variety in the weather. The only saving grace is the fact that it barely rains, at least by Portland standards.
I forced myself to go out for a bike ride, even though I didn't want to go. I stalled for 2 hours doing anything I could to prevent the inevitable. But once I got going, I warmed up and actually took off a layer. I rode to the Dyrehaven Park for the first time in 2 months. I rode all the way up to the castle in the middle of the park, in record time. I was rewarded with close-up views of
hundred of deer, mostly males with ginormous antlers. Often, they would just stand on the trail and almost dare me to pass. There were times I was literally 10 feet away from bucks with very big points. I would creep by, admiring and honoring these magnificent creatures. but at the same time I was nervous, like in the final scene from The Birds, where they drove by thousands of birds in their convertible, waiting any second for an attack. The park, like the rest of Denmark, is deep into winter. Muted browns and grays. Trees without leaves. No green or any color for that matter.
Maya just went on a road trip with her basketball team to Hamburg, Germany to another International School. Both the U12 and U14 boys and girls teams went, together on one bus. They drove on a Friday, played one game Friday and one game Saturday then drove back. It was a pretty big deal for Maya, but she handled it like it was nothing. She hasn't even had a sleepover away from out house since moving here, but she goes off to another country no problem! She stayed with a host family from that school who happened to be Swedish. She had 2 different currencies, a passport, a phone and her gear. What a big shot. Their teams got creamed but she had a good time. They only play games during one more tournament, in The Hague, Holland. They will go from Thursday - Monday, early March. Craig and I will take Molly out of school and fly there for the weekend to watch and see Amsterdam.
Other than sports, Maya does o.k. in school. No major challenges. They just finished a unit on Energy and are starting their next Unit of Inquiry called "Where we are in place and time" that deals with peace on earth, including war.
Molly just finished her unit called "finding your voice" which ended with a talent-like show from the 2 third grades. Molly performed a dramatic skit and recited a poem. Others made music, danced and such. Molly is enjoying every part of school and her after-school activities: dance, yoga dn gymnastics. She is learning a forward handspring. Still the same old Molly who needs something to do every given moment. She just went to a birthday sleepover party and stayed up til 11 pm. Most of the others stayed up til 12:30 or 1 am. That's my girl!
There are so many little things about living here I wish I could remember as they happen. I'll try to recount a few:
I started playing tennis with "the ladies" on Wednesdays. 2 in my group are out with injuries so I get to play singles. Felt surfaces. Nice.
I'm going to the American Embassy tomorrow with a friend to help her sell her jewelry at a Vendor fair for the employees. Should be interesting.
Yoga with the kiddies is getting a little better - not so intense. I'm calming them down...
I'll think of more later.
Love to all,
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
The cold isn't as bad as the constant gray skies. Every once and a while we get a little glimpse of the sun, but maybe once every 2 weeks. That's a mental drain. There's just no variety in the weather. The only saving grace is the fact that it barely rains, at least by Portland standards.
I forced myself to go out for a bike ride, even though I didn't want to go. I stalled for 2 hours doing anything I could to prevent the inevitable. But once I got going, I warmed up and actually took off a layer. I rode to the Dyrehaven Park for the first time in 2 months. I rode all the way up to the castle in the middle of the park, in record time. I was rewarded with close-up views of
hundred of deer, mostly males with ginormous antlers. Often, they would just stand on the trail and almost dare me to pass. There were times I was literally 10 feet away from bucks with very big points. I would creep by, admiring and honoring these magnificent creatures. but at the same time I was nervous, like in the final scene from The Birds, where they drove by thousands of birds in their convertible, waiting any second for an attack. The park, like the rest of Denmark, is deep into winter. Muted browns and grays. Trees without leaves. No green or any color for that matter.
Maya just went on a road trip with her basketball team to Hamburg, Germany to another International School. Both the U12 and U14 boys and girls teams went, together on one bus. They drove on a Friday, played one game Friday and one game Saturday then drove back. It was a pretty big deal for Maya, but she handled it like it was nothing. She hasn't even had a sleepover away from out house since moving here, but she goes off to another country no problem! She stayed with a host family from that school who happened to be Swedish. She had 2 different currencies, a passport, a phone and her gear. What a big shot. Their teams got creamed but she had a good time. They only play games during one more tournament, in The Hague, Holland. They will go from Thursday - Monday, early March. Craig and I will take Molly out of school and fly there for the weekend to watch and see Amsterdam.
Other than sports, Maya does o.k. in school. No major challenges. They just finished a unit on Energy and are starting their next Unit of Inquiry called "Where we are in place and time" that deals with peace on earth, including war.
Molly just finished her unit called "finding your voice" which ended with a talent-like show from the 2 third grades. Molly performed a dramatic skit and recited a poem. Others made music, danced and such. Molly is enjoying every part of school and her after-school activities: dance, yoga dn gymnastics. She is learning a forward handspring. Still the same old Molly who needs something to do every given moment. She just went to a birthday sleepover party and stayed up til 11 pm. Most of the others stayed up til 12:30 or 1 am. That's my girl!
There are so many little things about living here I wish I could remember as they happen. I'll try to recount a few:
- Music stations are really into American pop music. Everywhere you go, American pop culture is evident. Stores everywhere play American music.
- Music stations are also fond of Bryan Adams. Go figure.
- Women don't wear hats for warmth (especially those that have spent a fortune on their hair)
- Women's hair cuts start at $75 for a cheap cut and can run upwards of $200. To add color is a few hundred more. You can tell who can afford it and who doesn't. Denmark is a good country to go gray.
- Women wear fur everywhere for function and warmth. Women wear fur to walk their dogs, shop at 7-11, stroll through the park, and everything else you can think of. It's real fur folks.
- 7-11 is very popular here. It's more than just U.S. style. I think it's because corner kiosks are standard, on every corner. 7-11 is like a modern version of the classic kiosk.
- Almost every home, store and place of business is made of stone.
- People shop daily for their food needs, often getting on or off the bus or train, which is why there are grocery stores everywhere you look. Sometimes there are 3 or 4 right next to each other. It's not uncommon to pass 10 stores in less than a mile.
- When I shop with a car, I fill 2/3 of my shopping cart, getting essentials for 4 or 5 days. I take a longer time at the check-out and feel all eyes upon me.
- In Danish schools, students call their teachers by their first names. At C.I.S., it's half and half. Maya and Molly call their teachers "Ms."
- Mail is delivered by bicycle.
- Public swimming pools mandate a cleansing shower prior to swimming, with a poster showing the 9 body parts that must be washed with soap. If you don't do it, there's sure to be some one yelling at you to do so.
- Fortunately, there are saunas by the showers, which feels lovely. It's the only time I feel really warm in this country.
- Copenhagen has a circular pool - you never have to make a "lapturn". You can just keep on going. Pretty cool. Most pools have warm water pools as well. They are as warm as bath water and families hang out and play for a long time in them.
- Many museums have child-friendly areas, introducing kids to art and culture at an early age. As well, many museums are free to children, with adults.
- People walk their dogs and let them poop anywhere. There is no law or regulation saying owners must scoop the poop. It's gross. Poop lays on sidewalks like land mines.
I started playing tennis with "the ladies" on Wednesdays. 2 in my group are out with injuries so I get to play singles. Felt surfaces. Nice.
I'm going to the American Embassy tomorrow with a friend to help her sell her jewelry at a Vendor fair for the employees. Should be interesting.
Yoga with the kiddies is getting a little better - not so intense. I'm calming them down...
I'll think of more later.
Love to all,
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Congratulations President Obama, Party On America!
We sat in the quiet of our little front room, watching America celebrate the inauguration of President Obama, the 44th President of the U.S. and the first person of color to hold such position. Nephew Matt Schneider joined us as we watched CNN, our only news channel in English. We hardly began to get that "comm-unity" that Americans felt that day. It is a sad thing to be so far away from the action and experience. But the main thing is that we witnessed the making of one of America's most significant moments in history, with our children. We hope and pray for the best for our new president and our country. I am proud to be an American. I am proud of the millions of people all over the country who united in spirit and hope. It's bigger than life. May it be the medicine we all need to heal and get stronger. Go Obama!
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Winter Walk Around Utterslev Mose
Last Sunday I went out on a brisk, cold morning for a walk from our house to Utterslev Mose. A mose is like a pond/lake/marsh/wildlife sanctuary and there are numerous all over Denmark. Almost all have paths around them for pedestrians. Some are named lakes and others are mose, not sure exactly the difference. Thus the name of our street, "Ellemosevej" is broken up into 3 words: Elle (a womans' name) Mose (the stream that runs along our street and connects lakes and Vej ("way").
Utterslev is a 15- 20 minute walk from our house and then we can choose 3 different routes around the lake with each a little longer. It's a great family bike ride on the weekend or a place for walks and runs while taking in nature.
This particular morning, the sun was bright and the sky blue for a change. The temperature was somewhere around 30. We were slowly coming out of 10 days of freezing temperatures so many waterways were frozen over. Folks had even been skating on the "canals" downtown.
I took along my camera just to document a very common occurance: Danes out for exercise in nature. I honestly thought Oregonians were athletic as a whole population but Denmark puts them to shame. At least in the bigger cities. There are more people here who run/walk/play team sports/etc. than go to church in Oregon. It's a way of life. Women bundle up their newborns to go out for a stroll in 25 degrees every day no matter what. People just get out - every day. Lots of dog walkers too, especially those in fur coats - but that's a whole other blog entry.
And they don't just train by themselves. They like to go in packs or clubs. We'll see running groups on the weekends of 20 or 40 people in a group. Europeans have to pay for sports. For example, if you want to play tennis or rock climb or play basketball or handball you must join a club, pay dues and then attend. Danes have every club imagineable. For pay. Some are subsidized by the government and others are private. There are no public tennis courts, basketball courts, skate parks, tracks, etc. The trick is to find what you want to do and then join that club. And then, the times of activities are usually after work - because almost all Danes work. Men and women alike.
Back to the walk: Very few bikes passed me since biking is mainly for commuting. Unless you are mountain bike riding or long road riding, commuter bikes get parked during "off time". Running is the after-hours sport. I continued along, noticing only deciduous trees with a few scraggly brown leaves. There's a common brown/gray tone to everything. It's going to be a long time before life comes back to the trees and bushes here.
But we are getting more daylight - hurray! It's fully light by 8:30 am and not dark until just after 4. Every day gets better so I feel like we are out of the darkest times. I've been feeling much calmer and at peace lately. Perhaps I am finally coming down from the commotion and stress of our move, or just feeling more settled, or both. The girls too. Craig is another story. He's good, but work will continue to be a constant challenge. He's so glad we are here to support him.
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Utterslev is a 15- 20 minute walk from our house and then we can choose 3 different routes around the lake with each a little longer. It's a great family bike ride on the weekend or a place for walks and runs while taking in nature.
This particular morning, the sun was bright and the sky blue for a change. The temperature was somewhere around 30. We were slowly coming out of 10 days of freezing temperatures so many waterways were frozen over. Folks had even been skating on the "canals" downtown.
I took along my camera just to document a very common occurance: Danes out for exercise in nature. I honestly thought Oregonians were athletic as a whole population but Denmark puts them to shame. At least in the bigger cities. There are more people here who run/walk/play team sports/etc. than go to church in Oregon. It's a way of life. Women bundle up their newborns to go out for a stroll in 25 degrees every day no matter what. People just get out - every day. Lots of dog walkers too, especially those in fur coats - but that's a whole other blog entry.
And they don't just train by themselves. They like to go in packs or clubs. We'll see running groups on the weekends of 20 or 40 people in a group. Europeans have to pay for sports. For example, if you want to play tennis or rock climb or play basketball or handball you must join a club, pay dues and then attend. Danes have every club imagineable. For pay. Some are subsidized by the government and others are private. There are no public tennis courts, basketball courts, skate parks, tracks, etc. The trick is to find what you want to do and then join that club. And then, the times of activities are usually after work - because almost all Danes work. Men and women alike.
Back to the walk: Very few bikes passed me since biking is mainly for commuting. Unless you are mountain bike riding or long road riding, commuter bikes get parked during "off time". Running is the after-hours sport. I continued along, noticing only deciduous trees with a few scraggly brown leaves. There's a common brown/gray tone to everything. It's going to be a long time before life comes back to the trees and bushes here.
But we are getting more daylight - hurray! It's fully light by 8:30 am and not dark until just after 4. Every day gets better so I feel like we are out of the darkest times. I've been feeling much calmer and at peace lately. Perhaps I am finally coming down from the commotion and stress of our move, or just feeling more settled, or both. The girls too. Craig is another story. He's good, but work will continue to be a constant challenge. He's so glad we are here to support him.
comments to thecohen4dk@gmail.com
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
